Shannon Ridge produces Chardonnays at different price points under several labels. There is, for instance, the Playtime Blonde, the unoaked Dalliance, or perhaps something from the winery’s High Elevation collection.
And then you reach a pinnacle, the 2013 Shannon Ridge Single Vineyard.
“This is the big boy Chardonnay,” said winemaker Joy Merrilees, holding up a glass.
From the glass it is possible to scan the horizon. From the wild, fertile bottom lands that roll toward the sea, hints of sel gris and dune grasses rise. Tilled earth and spices spilled onto a warm stone hearth follow. The scent of tropical fruit, stewing with cloves catches your attention before you ascend into high orchards.
The aromas are distinct and expansive. They stretch beyond your imagination, straying so far It’s possible to drift, to vanish in the wine’s vast embrace.
“It’s got a lot going on,” Merrilees acknowledged.
The Chardonnay retired into French oak, 40 percent of it new, for 14 months. The time softened the buttery richness of malolactic fermentation into a supple cream, which lends depth to a plate of caramelized pineapple, banana and peach. Dabbled with sweet spice, the flavors wrap you in a cozy, romantic spell. This is a familiar face in a long for destination.
Earthy spice roams under the fruit at first. It reemerges as pricks of white pepper, adding spark to the finish. And curls of red apple peel, fallen to a worn stone floor leaves an old world reminder of chalk hills and craggy orchards.
“We did a whole cluster press,” Merrilees said. “That’s probably where you get the skin notes.”
The wine conquered the 2015 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition field, claiming Best of Class honors. Three years after release it still shows beautiful balance. Chardonnay is a compliant wine, yielding to elevation, terroir and the ways of the winemaker.
But you might not notice the craft — not if you allow yourself to bask in the 2013 Shannon Ridge Single Vineyard Chardonnay’s vast realm.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
