It’s almost a miracle tamales even exist.
First off, some fortunate Aztec had to spill a basket of damp corn into a smoldering pile of ash. That person then needed plenty of free time and determination, because dried corn covered in soot requires hours of washing — to remove the skin — and milling before it succumbs, yielding a coarse flour.
Nowadays the process involves slaked lime in place of ash, but it still demands plenty from the clock.
“It takes a while to make them, but they’re gone so fast,” said Mike Moreno of Taqueria La Mexicana.
Yes, after all that effort a weary chef must ready the next batch.
Oh, shortcuts exist. Pre-packaged instant masa is perhaps the reason so many volume restaurants serve such pedestrian tamales — and why the expert hands of grandmothers or their children, plying the kitchens at little taquerias, turn out the best.
Well, some of their children.
“I can’t make the stuff,” Moreno admitted. “I just see my mom doing her thing. It’s something she picked up from grandma.”
The tamales Maria Amezcua prepares at Taqueria La Mexicana in Lakeport will convince anyone of the virtue in modesty.
The masa is almost tranquil, hinting at sweetness, whispering a mellow, nutty verse, nodding to a placid earthy savor, yet leaving a languid, creamy memory. Inside, shards of rustic pork carry a dusky hue, dabbed only by a trace of tomato sauce and perhaps a little hoja santa.
On top, she adds a thin brush of tomato and a second — equally reserved — of tomatillo sauce.
The tomatillo is impressive. After a tangy slash across the palate, grassier notes emerge to rein in the acidity. Before things calm, however, a wave of spicy heat swells, carrying to the finish.
An overflowing bowl of the tomatillo sauce would be welcome on the table. Depending upon the region, however, authentic tamales are more austere — masa and a filling, requiring little aid from a dressing.
Besides, the tomatillo sauce brings up childhood memories Moreno would rather repress.
“I used to hate peeling all of those,” he said with a laugh.
There are regional tamales that owe their popularity to colorful raiment. In Oaxaca some come draped in mole. For those in Yucatan, achiote is a must. But even the simplest presentation will cause people to follow tamale carts or flood into taquerias.
And the tamales at Taqueria La Mexican are a testament to the beauty of the time honored, elemental approach and the miracle of ancient discoveries. They are rustic, simple and immaculate
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
