Perhaps it happened when Jim Fore decided to slap a given name on his Grenache. But it is more likely the wine put on airs long before he added the French tag.
The Fore Family 2014 Grenache Noir — a term sometimes used to distinguish the red grape from its Blanc relative — carries itself with a decidedly different flair. Where a typical Grenache wears cherry hues and earthy spice, Fore’s chooses to hang moodier colors in its wardrobe.
Yes, red cherry and currant appear on the nose and the palate. Both characters are plush, and there’s a vibrant spirit in the wine. Hints of cinnamon keep the fruits from bounding too far, and curing tobacco hangs in the background — again in the aromatic swirl and each sip.
So far, so Grenache.
But this Grenache Noir yearns for something beyond the walls of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, where the varietal ranks in a triumverate with Syrah and Mourvedre. And so you sense, tugging at its cheerful canvas of fruits, hints of dark leather and bittersweet chocolate.
There is, in this bouyant wine, the clout of a Cabernet Sauvignon.
How did Fore manage to pull it off?
“I’d like to take credit, but it’s the mountaintop speaking to you,” he said.
Fore grows the Grenache Noir near the top of Cobb. The soil drains well, which suits the vines, noted for their tolerance of drought conditions. On the other hand, the elevation and afternoon shade keep the grapes relatively cool, contrary to their reputed love of soaring heat.
“We don’t over stress them,” Fore explained. “The vines seem happy.”
Perhaps it is the terroir talking. The winemaker was forced to take a few unexpected steps during fermentation. He decided on neutral French oak to still the tannins, pouring a fraction through stainless steel in order to hold onto the bright fruit.
“It’s got grip, so we tried to soften it,” Fore said. “You don’t expect that with a Grenache.”
Ah, but perhaps we should. The combination of red fruits and dark earth is exceptional. The bliss of Grenache married by nature to the brooding nature of Cab — well, it’s a wonderful experience.
So it’s not the name that sets the 2014 Grenache Noir apart. Clearly it’s the mountain.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
