When Martin Pohl tapped into a barrel of his 2015 Sauvignon Blanc for the first time, he had every reason blanch. The Beaver Creek winemaker may even have braced against the racks before that first sip, anticipating a wrenching taint.
You see, he harvested the grapes on Aug. 8, just as the Rocky Fire vented at its angriest. In September the wine huddled helplessly in barrels as the Valley Fire raged just outside. The blaze charred 11 acres of the property Pohl farms, including several acres of vineyard.
But any doubts Pohl harbored about the vintage were dismissed months ago.
“It’s the best Sauvignon Blanc I’ve ever made,” he said with a beaming smile.
The wine is surprisingly dry — crisp enough to be almost brittle. In place of residual sugars, it showcases the basket of fruits placed on a blanket set for a picnic on an untrammeled steppe that identify the varietal at its best.
Sliced mango and guava provide the aromatic welcome, tossed with a little green apple. Light grasses blow in the background, along with a pinch of tart berry, but the tropical sensation lingers.
Because Pohl cut the sweetness, harvesting at 22 brix, the wine feels almost ethereal, flitting across the palate. So again the fresh tropical fruits play freely, along with more apple and a little peach. It’s brisk and ready to soar, yet cannot quite leave a diaphanous foundation — sylvan though an impression of stone here and there adds some definition. On the finish, this aspect gains weight, developing into a nice musty character.
No wonder the winemaker gleams when discussing his latest vintage.
“I wanted it dry,” he explained. “It’s pure and clean. I like it.”
Pohl rested the wine in French Oak instead of stainless. The wood had endured five years of use, leaving it listless — or “neutral,” in winemaking terms.
But Pohl’s commitment to biodynamic methods likely contributed to the Sauvignon Blanc’s demeanor. He dry farms the plot, forcing the roots to dig deep. He plants a cover crop to knock down the weeds. He relies on native fermentation and — in this case — filtered the wine only once.
The process yields just 1 ton of grapes an acre, allowing for just 200 cases of the Beaver Creek 2015 Sauvignon Blanc. But he’s happy with the results.
“Abusing Mother Nature — that’s not my thing,” Pohl said.
Despite the fires and talk of damage to Lake County wines, Pohl really did not doubt the vintage. You see, a couple of episodes offered him hope that the 2015s would turn out fine.
That same August day Pohl picked his Sauvignon Blanc, he happened to meet the woman who would become his girlfriend. In September, with flames still whipping near the winery, a spell of rain calmed the situation, slowing the Valley Fire.
“The rain helped to save all the wines,” Pohl observed. “My 2015 Petite Sirah is delicious in the barrel. I just tasted it.”
It’s something to look forward to. For now, the Beaver Creek 2015 Sauvignon Blanc is something to truly enjoy.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
