Americans have a gift for ennobling the most humble of foods.
The hamburger, for instance, supposedly began as a slab of meat “baked” under the saddles of Mongolian marauders as the stormed across the plains of Eastern Europe. It became a backyard staple and, finally, a mark of culinary ostentation, dressed with artisanal bacon, farm fresh eggs, foie gras and more.
Bland, rudimentary sausages became the all-American hot dog. Although of German origin, the frankfurter became associated first with ballparks then with urban chefs delving into the art of charcuterie.
And then there is the chili dog.
Nothing more than a hot dog smothered in chili — and perhaps onions, cheese or other condiments, depending upon location — the dish conjured reverent memories of Coney Island in its heyday, the Detroit of the muscle city era and the sort of malt shop where one might hang out with Richie, Potsie and The Fonz.
At The Spot, Clearlake’s paean to nostalgia — and to diner fare nicely done — they take the chili dog to another level.
The French bread pocket chili dog, prepared if you wish with a hot link, involves familiar ingredients. But the meat, chili, cheese and onions are tucked into a hollowed half of fresh French bread.
“Make it sloppy, but don’t make a mess,” The Spot’s Fernando Botello said, explaining the logic behind the creation.
Yes, the bread trumps a plain hot dog bun. Through this device, it’s possible to pick up the chili dog and devour it like a sandwich. But the key to the dish lies in the rich, hefty joust between hot link and home made chili.
The link adds a smoldering heat, torched more when The Spot’s kitchen staff give it a turn on the charbroiler. The added smoke picks up on the fatty, acrid streak of bacon, mixed in with the chili — which includes a measure of jalapeno, as well.
“It’s a really good combination,” Botello explained. “I like it.”
Each bite is a trip through Americana. The Spot’s chili dog carries the same casual swagger of as anything served at Nathan’s, Lafayette Coney Island or American Coney Island.
The latter two are Detroit fixtures, by the way. They sit side by side and their fans refuse to mingle, even though one family owns both joints.
But in The Spot’s chili dog, one finds earthiness of Midwestern chili, with beans, a measure of southwestern heat and the ambition of Americans everywhere who take common fare and lend it a creative boost.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
