The 2013 Diamond Mine Cuvee from Six Sigma is a reluctant prizefighter, a still unknown Rocky Balboa sharing the eye of a tiger with a heart of gold. At least that’s how winemaker Matt Hughes describes the red blend.
“It smacks people around and then apologizes at the end,” he said, laughing.
The punches thrown come in the form of bold fruits and bursting berries. On the nose, it weighs in with cherry, blueberry jam and ripe blackberry. The impressions hang in the air, luscious and intense.
OK — it is a big wine, but it is not really one to fight.
As these aromas bring you into their embrace, a darker mood sneaks in — earthy, with hints of worn leather and winter spice. Yet this somber notion lasts just a moment, brightened by genteel white pepper and a vague but inviting indication of charred hazelnut.
Each sip follows a similar routine. The cuvee winds up with stewed plums, split blueberries and ripe cherries and explodes on the palate, only to finish with a cheerful pat of light, fresh juice.
The fruits never really fade until the end, mind you. Instead, the deeper flavors buried under the first tumble of fruits emerge and began to add structure in the form of tanned leather, dry earth, sweet spices and turned stone — layer after layer of framework for the brighter flavors to wrap around until the sip is complete and the wine delivers that final, happy tap.
Where some wines develop on the palate and others unfold, Six Sigma’s 2013 Diamond Mine Cuvee becomes. It’s a tremendously pleasant experience.
“It’s fun,” Hughes agreed. “The hardest job was trying to create something approachable.”
The three varietals involved in the blend — Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah — were each raring to go when harvested. Because of the tannins, Hughes expects the wine to age beautifully.
For those familiar with earlier vintages of the cuvee, Six Sigma’s 2013 will come as a welcome surprise.
“It’s very much a different wine,” Hughes pointed out.
For the first time the Six Sigma team decided to flip the blend in favor of Tempranillo. It now accounts for 63 percent of the mix, with Cabernet Sauvignon (26 percent) and Syrah (11 percent) in the wake.
Once in the barrels, Hughes allow the varietals time to get acquainted and test their strengths and weaknesses in a combination of new and used oak. The result is a rare collaboration over contested territory.
The Tempranillo contributes plum and cherry, the latter also picked up by Cabernet Sauvignon. Syrah finds hints of blueberry in the Tempranillo and expands upon them. The meaty, hearty savor of Syrah and in the undertones of Cabernet fill out the acrid earthiness of the Tempranillo, without destroying the bright cherry tomato edge.
For Hughes, the shift in percentages makes sense. Most wine aficionados understand Cabernet, certainly. The winery has, however, earned plenty of acclaim for its Tempranillos.
“Cabernet is playing a stagehand role,” he said. “It helps the other two get along.”
Ah, the heart of gold.
Yes, the 2013 Six Sigma Diamond Mine Cuvee ends up in cordial kinship, a balanced and obliging wine. But it still knows how to throw a sweet opening swing.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
