That first step onto a tightrope drawn high over the urban canyons of New York must cause even the most steady of daredevils to flinch. A sudden gust, a momentary distraction, a crow with a mean streak — any one of these can lead to tragedy.
It’s a lot like placing a steak on the grill.
Yeah, yeah — the thought of plummeting 40 stories to a messy demise might cause the heart to beat a little faster than, say, scorching a $40 cut of meat. The point is a lot of things can go wrong in both endeavors.
You see, the flavor of steak is hardly tenacious. It cowers when seasoned with a heavy hand. It disappears under a dousing of sauce. And it withers away as heat builds. Push it to well done and all your palate comprehends are those bittersweet scars left by the grill.
The challenge becomes greater when dealing with filet mignon. Carved from the narrow end of the tenderloin, the dainty cut offers little fat. So chefs often wrap the beef with strips of bacon, hoping the drippings will keep the filet tender.
But Eddie Ramey, chef at the recently opened Giovanni’s Italian Steakhouse at Lampson Field feels no trepidation entering the kitchen. He has been working with steak for a decade. And in the month since Giovanni’s quietly opened its doors, he’s picked up on the quirks of his equipment.
“Now I have a good idea of the grill, which spots are a bit hotter,” he explained. “And we’ve got a good group in the kitchen.”
Instead of bacon, Ramey counters the filet mignon dry wit with a soothing spread of butter. This lends a plush note where the meat chars, dulling any bitter edge. The beef itself is cushy when ordered rare, its fibers dissolving leisurely and the rich yet rustic savor easing over your palate. Pulled from the heat with the center still cool — ordered blue — his filet mignon feels almost creamy.
It’s an impressive feat, especially considering Ramey works with choice cuts, which are not as densely marbled — and not as hard on the wallet — as prime.
What truly stands out, however, is the dusting of spices and roasted coffee on the surface.
Yes, coffee. The earthy, bitter grind picks up on the pastoral sophistication of the beef. The bite echoes that in the char, adding dimension without overpowering the filet. A deft touch with salt and pepper allows coffee to elude the more potent seasonings and show itself — subtle, but intriguing.
“It complements the beef pretty well,” Ramey said.
The seasoning was created by chef Frank Stephenson, who helped open the restaurant and train the staff and who now watches over the kitchen’s progress.
Ramey credits the veteran chef for placing filet mignon touched with dark roast coffee on the menu. The combination works for beautifully for those willing to keep their hands off the salt and pepper shakers, take a step back and appreciate circumspect flavors.
But what is involved in creating the seasoning package, well, that will have to wait. They prepared enough to get them through a few months.
Besides, Ramey said he had not checked the recipe.
“He didn’t leave it out for me,” the chef said with a laugh, jokingly implying that Stephenson locked the prized notes in a heavily guarded vault.
Maybe breaking that secret is the true test of culinary courage.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
