To report that Boatique Winery has become a popular label in a short span is, well, an exercise in stating the obvious.
The place opened with a flourish. First there was the striking tasting room and gleaming collection of wooden boats. Then came a string of awards for their wines.
But this precipitate climb accounts for only a part of the reason Boatique’s 2014 Zinfandel will soon become one of those storied wines — talked about, though rarely from first hand knowledge. You see, the plot devoted to Zinfandel vines covers less than an acre, producing just a couple of barrels.
In other words, bottles of this distinct Zinfandel are scarce even now, just a few days after it was released to the public.
Fortunately, pursuit of a bottle or two offers a nice reward for the effort.
It opens with a familiar flex, as big fruity aromas spill from the glass. A torrent of split blueberries is followed by a rich jam of dark fruits. But just as you begin to nod at the conventional introduction, the wine begins to question its ancestry.
Elusive yet intriguing notes edge into the bouquet. A hint of melon rind just lifted from the earth taps you, only to step out of view as you turn. A glimmer appears as a door cracks open, allowing an impression of bright fruit through — fresh strawberry and a little citrus. And all the while a soft floral fragrance sways gently.
“It’s different than any Zinfandel I’ve ever made,” Boatique winemaker Luke Bass acknowledged.
On the palate the wine follows a similar line, meeting expectations before revealing its unique side. Bold blueberry and dark plum flow, once again concentrating down into a luscious jam.
The first impression speaks to why California Zinfandels earned such a following. It’s a juicy, pleasing introduction, roused further by sparks of black peppercorn.
And then …
“It has an interesting spice,” Bass observed.
Indeed. One might expect a touch of licorice on the palate, depending upon terroir and treatment. Bass finished fermentation in year old French oak before allowing it to rest, which explains the trace of vanilla and wood. But tossed in with the familiar nip of pepper is something more profound — clove maybe, tamarind perhaps, smoked cinnamon?
You yearn to know because it works so well. It piques curiosity, turning an enjoyable romp into a moment of contemplation. More significantly, it eases the rollicking fruit into the long urbane finish, soothed by cured tobacco leaf, vanilla and worn leather.
It’s a beautiful experience. Fortunately, the winemaker agrees.
“I want to make more Zinfandel,” he said.
Until then, there are just about 60 cases available.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
