It may seem like sorcery, as if chef John Arslanian somehow waggled a wand, commanding bacon to appear fully cooked and the pan spotless and dry.
Yet on the plate is evidence of his runic ways. Ingots of pork belly glisten on the plate, cushy with fat rendered through the meat, each identically tender — duplicates conjured from the culinary netherworld.
Except, of course, that Arslanian dismisses any notion of culinary hermetics. Instead, to create gorgeously opulent pork belly he simply sprinkles on a little salt and pepper, along with a few other common ingredients.
Oh, and he cooks the lot low and slow, snapped inside a plastic bag and tossed into a container of water.
Sous vide — preparing meat or vegetables in a sealed package — is hardly a new technique. That it ebbs and flows in popularity can be attributed to the level of patience (or lack thereof) and precision in professional kitchens.
Simply put, sous vide provides a predictable heat source. There are no hot spots on a burner to tip one edge of the meat beyond another. There is no need to fret over a chop or strands of asparagus left too long on a raging grill. It merely relies on relatively exact control of water temperature in order to cook ingredients evenly.
“The trick is leaving it alone,” Arslanian said.
The Fresh & Bangin’ Eatery chef steps away from his sous vide oven for 72 hours, allowing the pork belly to idle at a constant 74 degrees.
Time and temperature gradually break the bacon, streaked with luscious fat, down to a plush, buttery bite.
“Sous vide holds all the juices, it concentrates the flavor,” Arslanian explained. “Done right it melts in your mouth.”
The pork belly basks in ponzu, jalapeno and a little green onion. But the beauty of the presentation is the true savor of the meat. It seems to strut, the husky fat trapped throughout the naturally fibrous cut rather than spilled out wastefully into a pan. But it wants to flaunt, the sweetness of pork made vibrant.
Of course, it is a hefty piece of meat — luxurious and filling.
“It’s refined bacon,” Arslanian observed. “We put a lot of love into it.”
They also drape it in plum sauce before plating. This lends a tart edge to pare the fattiness. It also cradles the sweet character in the meat, giving it a lift.
Oh — he does toss the pork belly into a pan for just a moment before serving. This finishing touch lends a nice, crisp patina.
It’s a captivating plate — and one that may upset the rest of your dinner plans.
You see, the folks at Fresh & Bangin’ count this as an appetizer. Maybe Arslanian does commune with the evil spirits after all.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
