“It’s a miserable vine to deal with,” Rosa d’Oro winemaker Nick Buttitta observed. “I decided to plant before I knew what the vines were like.”
He’s referring to Negroamaro, a grape common to Italy’s heel dating back perhaps to the days when the Lions dominated action at the Coliseum — long enough, at least, for it to scorn those who pluck it from native lands.
Few vineyards outside of Puglia bother with the midnight-hued grape. And only the occasional winemaker transforms it into a standalone wine.
One wonders why. You see, any sympathy for Buttitta’s frustration in the field is forgotten once Rosa d’Oro’s 2013 Negroamaro reaches the glass.
It is a rich and festive wine, with flavors and a bouquet reminiscent of holiday gatherings that give light to dim December evenings. The nip of clove balances aromas of stewed blackberries and blueberries — the makings of grandma’s pie, without the crust. Under the deep berry essence, a layer of savory and sweet spice entices the nose.
There’s a warmth in the wine’s approach, yet with a hint of fresh peach teasing around the edges.
This lighter fringe shows on the palate as a bright raspberry dancing over thundering bass notes. Dark fruits and drying fig dominate, again evoking images of hearty winter desserts. Supine leather creates a plush foundation and blends comfortably into a dark, bittersweet chocolate hint on the finish.
It’s a wine that stirs memories and causes smiles.
Negroamaro thrives in parts of Italy. But on Buttitta’s plot of Lake County soil it cringes, yielding only small clusters of fruit. But the Rosa d’Oro winemaker prefers this result.
“It concentrates the flavors,” he said.
Because 2013 was Buttitta’s first attempt at a standalone Negroamaro, he found grapes from nearby counties to ensure a decent case count. He also blended in a small amount of Refrosco.
The wine rested in dated oak.
“We prefer neutral barrels because we don’t want to impart the flavors of the wood,” Buttitta explained.
Rosa d’Oro is built around this philosophy. Buttitta and his son, Pietro, prefer to step back and allow the grapes to speak — to let them express the vicissitudes of a growing season and the surrounding terroir.
Buttitta also enjoys introducing the market to some of Italy’s less traveled varietals. And in the case of the 2013 negroamaro, his effort to reach out deserves our thanks.
No matter how many times the grape rebuffs him in the field, the results in the bottle suggest cozy evenings, warm spice and rich dessert jam. It is simply an enjoyable wine and you grow fond of it quickly.
“That’s why I make those,” Buttitta said.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
