If one could personify olive oil, Con Affetto would be a quaint, cheerful southerner — one with an endearing smile and welcoming demeanor fond of sweet drinks on the veranda. Step out of line, however, and she bristles.
On the nose, the Kelseyville-produced oil is affectionate. Hints of fresh raspberry and new mown grass waft up to the porch. An impression of iced tea swirled with sugar completes the introduction.
The bouquet indicates a mannered, mild tempered oil. But Con Affetto will give into spite — grudgingly, but with conviction.
The oil is rich and buttery. Within this mouthfeel, a mellow nutty character calms waves of meadow grass and drying hay. After these pleasantries, however, a tide of biting black pepper swells. It seems innocent at first, a distant shout.
But the spice continues to grow, completing the finish in a balance of sweet, earthy and sharp. It’s a beautiful experience.
Con Affetto is available at the farmers market held on the grounds of Steele Winery on Saturday and perhaps on Tuesday.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
