California winemakers redefined Chardonnay.
They adopted the varietal from Burgundian villas and encouraged it to shed European habits, adding meat to the lean Chablis style through a steady diet of oak.
With this bigger stride and new world accent came a lexicon suited to American Chardonnay — buttery, describing the rich savor of wine rested in wood; flabby, for those churned with too much enthusiasm.
Most of all, these were — and still are — resounding wines, laced with vanilla, cream and intense tropical fruit.
It’s a model winemaker Mark Burch knows well, which is why his description of Chacewater’s 2014 Chardonnay sounds almost like a riddle.
“The cool thing about it, it’s very much a California style, but not a California fashion,” he explained.
Hmm.
Before nitpicking the definition of style and fashion to find a solution, you must realize that the varietal has a keen eye for accessories. Add a touch of wood, dress it for a cooler climate, strip it from its lees and the wine will flaunt the effort.
Chardonnay is a model. Its features remain the same, but you are drawn to its outfit.
So Burch stirred the 2014 on its lees for eight months. He rested with wine in wood, with 70 percent used French to temper the outline of oak. He also allowed a buoyant acidity to remain, lending personality.
“When you lean it out, you get that varietal character,” Burch pointed out. “It’s not overstated. There’s a restraint to it.”
Simply put, the winemaker has rekindled some of the Chardonnay’s old world manners, without denting that California confidence.
The aromas are pleasant and light, with handfuls of uncut green apple and white petals greeting the morning sun. Under this first bloom, a bed of stone pulled from place and set in the orchard provides depth.
“On the nose it’s a little earthy,” Burch agreed. “I like that.”
Still, a trace of country butter laces through the bouquet. And on the palate, this sensation improves, giving the wine a rich and creamy feel. Green apple, now sliced into crisp wedges, wait to be tucked into dough measured and rolled out for a pie. Candied lemon fills a bowl in the corner — bright edge slivering a foundation of pomace and earthy spice.
There is the brisk apple and staid minerality of Chablis hand in hand with the opulent brawn of Northern California.
“It’s a cool wine, that’s for sure,” Burch observed.
Others have taken note. This week the Chacewater tasting room’s stock sold out, forcing the winery to ship more from storage. Next month, Wine Enthusiast magazine will feature the wine, already rated by its critics at over 90 points.
Now that’s redefining a style … or is that a fashion?
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
