To swirl and sip Rosa d’Oro’s 2013 Aglianico is to open an old trunk and find yellowed postcards from Italy.
Memories of that journey decades ago flood back into your mind — the kitchen herb gardens in rustic villages, the warm brush gusting in from the sea, the catacombs of ancient Rome, the sun baked escarpments, the parching heat. It’s all in the glass.
On the nose you encounter the rasping savor of tarragon, rosemary and oregano, along with the snap of basil. Salt grass wavers in the breeze. The heady musk of damp loam burrows under these impressions, serving as a foundation for the leaden dark fruits that dominate the bouquet.
The same basket of dark fruits spills across your palate. It’s an introduction that suggests a deft mélange of plum, fig and blackberry — lush and hearty. But Rosa d’Oro’s Aglianico is a venture and it quickly plunges into the close and weathered alleys of ancient cities. Stonework and musty abreuvoir become apparent as you tread through the labyrinthine path, which opens into a furrowed field edged by drying herbs.
It’s a deeply rooted wine — as enduring and storied as the walls of Rome. And it will only improve with the telling. The strapping tannic finish indicates a bottle that will age nicely.
Winemaker Nick Buttitta planted Aglianico vines after working with Primativo and Barbera.
“I tasted wines and liked the Aglianico,” he explained, acknowledging that he was not prepared for the vine’s feisty nature. “It looked like it would do well here, and I liked it.”
Native to southern Italy, Aglianico appears to thrive at higher elevations in volcanic soil. They tend to ripen late, holding back until long after Cabernet Sauvignon has been harvested and pressed. However, on Buttitta’s plot the vines proved even more stubborn. They yield just 2 tons of fruit per acre.
“But it is worth it,” the winemaker said. Indeed, the wine earned Best of Class from judges at the recent Lake County Wine Competition.
Like the archaeological strata of an ancient land, the dense fruit and brusque herbs express more than the spare sensation of a berry or sprig of tarragon. In combination they reveal hints of licorice, bitter chocolate and the tang of mineral-laden soil. Yet there is always a pattern of hearty fruit.
So Buttitta is right. The 2013 Aglianico is worth it — although he will not release to the public until sometime in July.
Of course, the 2012 will also stir memories.
