Just what did Michael Wood do to his Non Typical red?
You don’t believe his response, at least initially. But he defends his actions with such composure you begin to concede. After all, Michael Wood has no reason to step away from a blend that gains in popularity year after year.
Oh, he tweaked the percentages of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Barbera and Petit Verdot in this annual kitchen sink blend. But Wood does this after every fermentation, looking to walk a tightrope of consistency. He also turned up the volume of new French oak, though only a notch or two.
So he’s right. Nothing in the winemaking process would support the distinct outcome. And yet Shed Horn’s 2014 Non Typical — well, to place it may be as futile as comparing Scarlett Johansson and Ingrid Bergman.
Still, it stands apart from earlier vintages. Judges at the California State Fair’s commercial wine competition recently awarded it 98 points, Double Gold, Best of Class in the North Coast and — as if not willing to part without offering another accolade — Best of Region.
“People are raving about it,” Wood agreed. “I think it is one of our best ever.”
The wine is both charming and haunting. Your first encounter with the 2014 shadows you for weeks, calling out with reminders of its beauty. You don’t want the memories to fade.
The wine embraces with aromas of cherry, blackberry jam, earthy fig, dark chocolate and fresh plum, all drifting through a primrose garden. The impressions are all welcome — visions of fresh fruit and sylvan afternoons.
Although many in the wine industry point out that our response to a glass is informed largely by its bouquet, Shed Horn’s Non Typical proves more expressive on the palate.
As one might expect from a blend leaning heavily — 46 percent — on Zinfandel, bold jammy fruits spill from the rim, bolstered by freshly picked blackberries and blueberries. Yet this is swirled with a rich, dark chocolate, as Petite Sirah strives to assert itself.
Fruit and chocolate hitting it off, finding instant compatibility may seem like a wonderful experience. But keep in mind the cast in each varietal. Black licorice tugs on the bittersweet chocolate notes. Clove and cracked pepper contribute an almost lurid spicy trail. Leathery dark fruits and acrid smoke lurk in the depths.
Yet this is hardly a brooding wine. Fresh berries and bursting plum weave throughout, only fading at the finish, as a calming flush of vanilla emerges, along with bright floral notes.
Even at just 17 percent — combined — Barbera and Petit Verdot are keen show their influence in the blend.
So what accounts for the gorgeous vintage? Wood explains that nature was kind to Lake County’s red varietals in 2014.
“You could tell this was going to be a really good vintage,” he said. “We are pretty excited.”
With a string of awards and astonished customers, the folks at Shed Horn should be.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
