Be very careful when discussing favorite flavors around Matt Young or his sous chef, Kerry Riley.
Just before dinner rush on Wednesday, as Riley sat pondering the evening’s offerings, the matter of New York deli lox and bagels entered the conversation. His eyes sprung open and the chef stiffened from his careless slouch.
Clearly taken with the concept, he ticked through the steps that would transform the noise of Murray’s into a delicate maki presentation.
That’s right, a sushi roll.
Young and his team at Saw Shop Gallery Bistro in Kelseyville may not turn their backs completely on sushi tradition, but they certainly show little fear when stretching the boundaries. Until they introduced Japanese inspired rolls to the restaurant’s Wednesday menu, for example, the question of how much guacamole to plate with maki had never come up.
Never — not in the long history of dining out.
On any given Wednesday kitchen staff may prepare recognizable fare, such as tuna rolls or the colorful dragon roll. They have ordered uni and fresh salmon, ribbed with flavorful streaks of fat. They fry up tempura crusted soft shell crab.
“Of course I’m not going to destroy tradition,” Riley said. “But …”
Yes, the restaurant lists a chimichanga roll.
The American favorite — the chimichanga — was allegedly born when an Arizona cook accidentally fumbled a burrito into a vat of hot oil. Saw Shop’s chimichanga roll dips a mellow California roll into batter and then touches it to the fry vat.
What emerges is a fusion revelation. A malty, crackling veneer brings textural contrast to the sticky rice, while at the same time pulling fair nutty elements from the grain. The touch is so deft the simple filling seems to lift in spirit, showing off a sweet, fishy character normally dulled in the introductory presentation.
A slip through creamy guacamole fleshes out richness in the crackling crust. But it also lends an lean, grassy note.
It’s beautiful. But the experience does not end with the Mexican sauce.
On one end of the plate, mango salsa — cut playfully to mimic corn — cleanses the palate. On the other, a nori salad contributes a splashy crunch and a modicum of heat. As whimsical as the dish seems when scanning the menu, a taste reveals the chef’s consideration of flavors and pairings.
“That’s me — go outside the box,” Riley said. “But you have to know your flavors and what’s going to bring it out — and when to stop.”
In that regard, Riley shows great confidence. In any dish, cream cheese can usher certain flavors forward. But the spread is also capable of dousing subtleties and blunting welcome notes. In Saw Shop’s Philly roll, the chef reins in the tangy cheese, allowing the rich and acrid comfort of smoked salmon to profit. A dab of Sriracha cream and salty roe hem everything in neatly.
There is a happy genius to these presentations. But the idea for sushi on Wednesday at the Kelseyville destination started with a time killing conversation, when Young and Riley were tossing around ideas on a mundane afternoon.
“I was thinking of different things,” Riley recalled. “I’ve done sushi before. I’m not an expert, but I enjoy doing it.”
Young approved and thus began sushi Wednesdays.
The menu changes, and it is not entirely inspired by Japanese tradition. Vegetarian spring rolls are light and herbal, with a fresh snap cooled by a hearty peanut sauce. One week they offer freshly shucked oysters. Another week features Maryland soft shell crab.
But the confounding creations — the chimichanga roll, for instance — are truly memorable. After all, Riley asked, “who puts guacamole with sushi?”
We all have to wait a week to find out.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
