At most competitions wine judges are allowed to compare notes. On occasion they verbally joust, defending the composition of one wine over another’s selection.
During the annual Lake County Wine Competition, however, the panel was pretty much in agreement. All praised the 2014 Writer’s Block Malbec from Steele Wines. And one judge set her sights beyond the county line.
Even before results were settled, Deborah Parker Wong — an editor for two wine magazines — suggested the Writer’s Block Malbec ranked as the best of that varietal in the state of California. Perhaps another label could match its profile, she conceded, but none could claim advantage over the Lake County wine.
The glass can hardly contain the Writer’s Block’s exuberance. Aromas of dark berries — blackberry, blueberry — and plum lend it a boisterous yet friendly demeanor. A drifting notion of milk chocolate balances with a touch of comfort. But in the background mysterious alleyways lurk, closing with hints of earthy spice, tobacco and worn leather.
Malbec gained popularity for its ease with any situation. It is an enjoyable varietal, loaded with fresh fruit flavor. In the 2014 from Writer’s Block, these pop on the palate. Fresh blackberry and plum dominate, brightened by a trace of brisk raspberry.
These are not just frolicking impressions, however. The colorful lot is advised by more serious council — stern wood, aged leather and an elegant layer of vanilla. This creates a neatly balanced wine that, by mid-palate, develops richness in the form of cocoa and peppery spice.
The finish is encouraged by these supporting flavors, extending as you begin to realize each one.
“It’s one of my favorites,” said Raven Sprague, Steele Winery’s tasting room manager. “It has just enough tannins, just enough acidity.”
Quincy Steele, son of the legendary winemaker Jed Steele, fermented at cooler temperatures to preserve the bright berries. The wine spent a year maturing in a combination of French, American and Hungarian oak, 15 percent of it new wood. This sentencing allowed it time for reflection, to mellow a bit and pick up nuances that steady the wine.
But the most important step occurred long before the growing season even began.
Although a Bordeaux varietal, it was often confined by French winemakers to blends. Even when produced as a single varietal, old world vintners preferred to mute Malbec’s vivid colors. Once plunged into the hills of Argentina, however, the wine found itself. In fact, most people now associate Malbec with the South American nation.
So Quincy Steele traveled south, spending a few harvests in Argentina’s famed Malbec vineyards — not as a tourist, but with a purpose.
“It was so he could come back and make it taste authentic,” Sprague explained — “Malbec in its truest form.”
No wonder the accolades. The Writer’s Block 2014 vintage is Malbec at its best.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
