For more than a decade California winemakers readily fed the desire for chest thumping Cabernet Sauvignons. Brawny, explosive in temperament, many deserved the fruit bomb reputation.
But when a winemaker selects a more delicate instrument — a scalpel, perhaps, instead of grenades — Cabernet Sauvignon takes on a more graceful disposition.
Oh, the incisive chirp of bright cherries remains. And the darker fruits are keen to strut their fineries. But in the 2010 Cabernet from Hawk and Horse there is a remarkable noblesse.
Dense fruits issue from the glass, as blackberry, cassis and red cherry vie on the nose. Pacing behind these flourishes is evidence of a bouquet — fresh rose petals cast loose in the rush to arrange them in a vase — along with leather twine on a cedar shelf. From the distance, hints of peppery herbs cast a longing spell.
The reverie is brief, however. This is a wine intent on showcasing fruit as a still life, a masterpiece waiting to charm time.
A sip confirms these intentions. Structure is evident immediately, as a velvety tannic work lattices through the fruit. Even as you respond with great favor to the flavors, you realize the wine will only improve with proper storage.
Call it a win-win — if you own a second bottle.
Winemaker Tracey Hawkins showcases clever fruits that are indeed confident, almost to the point of presumptuousness considered on the whole. Yet they never allow this, entering in layers — blackberry and black currant traipsing under lighter cherry.
It’s an intriguing presentation, even before the supporting characters edge into view. Behind the intricate lacing of fruit, hints of beaten leather, drying leaves and earthy space gain foothold on the palate. Drifting over these notes — and more elusive — are kindly impressions of vanilla and powdered milk chocolate.
The finish requires a sundial to measure and is laden with cherry and cedar.
Hawkins prefers a minimalistic approach. The vineyard is organic and biodynamic. The grapes were allowed to hang out in the last long growing season before the onset of drought. She matured the Cabernet for 21 months in French oak, the overwhelming percentage new, with little of the manipulation that stirs wine in the barrel.
But little of this matters once you pour from the bottle. At that point it’s all about the Gordian fruits and the smile on your face.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon from Hawk and Horse.
