Any highway patrol officer would have called for a Breathalyzer.
After all, the weight of evidence suggests a few distilled spirits at work — distorted logic, the willingness to test any dare and the complete loss of culinary inhibition. But chef Jesse Hawley insists alcohol was not involved when he and another cook decided the essentials of a Reuben sandwich should work nicely in croquette form.
It’s disturbing just how right they were.
The “Hot Rocks” appetizer at Old World Tavern in Lakeport tips between the sniping bite of sauerkraut, the rustic swagger of corned beef and the cool tang of Swiss cheese. The flavors are comfortingly familiar, yet more understated than in sandwich form. And they rest under a hearty crust, rolled first in dough and then in Panko.
There’s an eloquence in the texture. Panko crackles readily, smattering into the brittle dough. Two subtle malty notes — one delicate, one more hoarse — vie for attention before a creamy country pate spreads over the palate. This is flecked with shreds of cured cabbage and seasoned meat, jabbing at random. Finally, a flow of melting cheese threads into the bite of the sauerkraut.
But that’s not all.
Hawley presents the croquettes with a drizzle — well, a bit more than a drizzle — of aioli, sparked by Sriracha. Creamy, yet baring fangs, the sauce lends a spicy aspect. At the same time, it tempers the rash nature of corned beef and sour cabbage.
“It works really well,” Hawley agreed. “It takes away the saltiness.”
The inspiration for the dish was more benign than a few quickly pounded shots of cheap tequila. The desire shared by many chefs to play with familiar ingredients, to borrow from different culinary traditions may be at the root of it.
Of course, the pantry helped.
“We had a bunch of corned beef,” Hawley said with a smile.
Naturally they came up with Hot Rocks.
Since introduced to the Old World Tavern menu recently, the appetizer — three or six croquettes to a plate — has been selling well. On some days Hawley and the kitchen staff find themselves scrambling to grind more pate.
No wonder. The dish appeals to all senses — the crunch, the creaminess, the spice and salt, the sense of whimsy and adventure wrapped in comfortable flavors.
Clearly Hawley knew what he was doing when creating the dish.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
