Ceviche returned to the menu at Fresh & Bangin’ Eatery this summer.
The timing is sensible — brisk citrus, basking cucumber and the bright squirt of tomato stamp the flaming embers of a Northern California afternoon. Shreds of red onion counter with an snap of earthiness, providing firm cuts of fish a foundation.
“It’s a nice, refreshing dish,” agreed chef John Arslanian.
The crew at Fresh & Bangin’ — Arslanian and his partner, Scott Price — picked up the ceviche technique while cooking at a Mexican seafood spot in Los Angeles. Their presentation reflects this, with freshly sliced onions, cilantro and, on the side, a brittle tostada for textural contrast.
Across Latin America, however, people favor different styles. In Peru, which claims the dish, it’s possible to find ceviche tossed with hominy or olives, often with fresh corn or potatoes on the side. In Brazil many prefer tropical fruits. Ecuadorians garnish with popcorn. Cubans substitute plantain chips in place of tostadas.
The only common themes are raw seafood and simplicity.
Well, the fish “cooks” in some form of acidic marinade. Arslanian uses freshly squeezed lemon juice, which “denatures” — cures and firms — the protein. This technique produces a texture similar to fish prepared over heat.
Only fresh fish responds, as the acids work quickly. Some fish break down after just an hour or so in the marinade. At Fresh & Bangin’ the kitchen selects suai, a Vietnamese fish now farmed on this side of the Pacific. Its dense flesh will cure for up to four hours.
The added time works in the Lucerne restaurant’s favor, blunting the sharpest edge of citrus. Where some ceviches suffer under the fierce rage of lemon or lime, Fresh & Bangin’s feels mellow, almost cool — and sublime.
Arslanian prepares a remarkable carrot-habanero aioli on the side. Yes, habanero, many times more intense in heat than a run of the mill jalapeno. Calmed by mayonnaise and carrot, however, the chile fizzles into an earthy pepper that complements the herb and onion, without overwhelming the fish.
“The spiciness of the habanero, the sweetness of the carrot — they balance each other,” Arslanian said.
That’s all there is too it. Ceviche is fresh, easy and so very cool.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
