Served at room temperature, Chacewater’s 2015 Dry Riesling is noteworthy enough. Pour from a bottle accustomed to a rack in the wine refrigerator, however, and it seems to bloom.
Hints of vanilla and oak staves that once held unrefined honey drift in behind initial bouquet of cleanly sliced apricots and peaches still dangling from the branch. Elusive moments, where tropical fruits tease and then disappear into a wisp of butter only add to the promise.
Riesling is a versatile grape, capable of creating gorgeous dessert wines, as well as crisp dry wines — and anything in between. Some scorn the varietal, thanks to cloying bottom shelf labels. Others mystify novices be reveling in its tendency to develop unique flavors. The rasp of diesel in fine Rieslings is prized by its fans.
“Historically this wine has aged into true petrol,” explained Chacewater winemaker Mark Burch of the newly released vintage. “In six to eight months it will be there.”
In anticipation of time in the bottle, a thread of lanolin dangles on the finish — a remarkably long and rich finish for such a crisp, dry wine. What stands out, particularly at first, is fresh apricot and peach, perhaps even wedge of nectarine. The fruit feels ripe and pure, plunged of its sugars. This allows subtle notes — a kiss of vanilla, a trace of honeycomb braced in an oak tree — to ease over the palate.
Meanwhile, a brisk blade of citrus peels around the edges, a reminder of the varietal’s acidic potential.
It’s a lean wine, perfect for summer relaxation. Yet it there are layers tucked into it worthy of contemplation.
“We’re giving up some delicate flavors, but the trade off is complexity,” Burch said. “I was looking to bring out the stone fruit.”
Burch harvested late, yet the vines — woven into gravely loam — allowed only 23 brix. He fermented the wine in the barrel, a blend of new American oak — 30 percent — and neutral French oak.
“It has great acidity, but it’s not overly tart,” Burch noted. “It’s a little reminiscent of a Chenin Blanc.”
In other words, the 2015 Chacewater Dry Riesling is simply wonderful — incisive, rich, full, intense and dry. Store it properly and you will be rewarded.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
