You might easily come to the conclusion that Mercedes Marroquin is a bit, well, indecisive.
Ask about her favorite sandwich, for example. She mentions something called “The Goat,” consisting of chicken pesto and goat cheese on a French roll. After a moment’s pause, she switches to “The Ruben,” a delicatessen classic.
With the matter almost settled, Marroquin offers another option.
“The ‘Turkey Delight’ should be my favorite,” she said.
For those who approach the counter at Vintage Station Deli, a new spot on Main St. in Upper Lake, the owner’s utter lack of sandwich conviction is an asset. Her appreciation extends beyond the basics of corned beef, pastrami and rye bread to all things deli-related.
“I always wanted to do this,” Marroquin said of the new space. “It’s my dream come true.”
Vintage Station Deli opened quietly a few weeks ago after almost five months of renovation. The building served as a service station back when cars kicked up dust on Upper Lake’s dirt roads and house other small businesses over the years, including an antique shop.
Marroquin, who started in a Healdsburg deli, coveted the Upper Lake location for almost a decade before purchasing the place.
Her touch appears to have revived the historic structure. Groomed and gleaming, it features patio seating both in front and out back. She also transformed the station’s garage area into dining space that opens up to both courtyards.
But she’s earning more accolades for her work behind the counter than on the rebuild. The Goat already ranks as a local lunchtime favorite, with The Blue Ruben — a stack of corned beef, sauerkraut and blue cheese on rye — not far behind.
Marroquin insists that deli sandwiches be constructed with the palate in mind. In other words, meat nestles into mustard while the trimmings cozy up to mayonnaise — a trick she says flatters complementary flavors.
Of course, she explains, the facade is as important as the interior.
“To me, what makes a good sandwich is good bread,” Marroquin said.
Baked and delivered every day, the bread frames a classic club, a French dip, something called The Cadillac loaded with chicken, bacon, sun dried tomatoes and more, as well as an eponymous option.
“The Mercedes — that is something I made for my kids, so I had to have it on the menu,” she said.
Tomato and fresh basil lend a bright aspect to The Mercedes, taunted by the earthy rasp of Kalamata olives. But all of this just serves as a supporting cast to burrata — a prima donna cheese that needs only the applause of herbs, fruits and oil to dominate a stage.
Marroquin is still working from a basic menu as they sort out the kinks (such as replacing the rudimentary air conditioning unit). She hopes to expand both the sandwich offerings as well as adding charcuterie in the near future.
But the current list is a good starting point.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
