Winemakers know the spiteful Viognier grape will lash out at the slightest provocation.
In the fields it strips down when too warm, huddles up when too cold, refusing to produce the heavy clusters that translate into a warehouse packed with cases ready to sell. And it seems far too keen to flirt with dangerous elements, the not-so-noble rot that ruins a vintage.
Don Angel winemaker Miguel Silva was almost tripped up by another of Viognier’s frustrating traits. The grape is noted for concentrated sugars.
“There was a little residual sugar left,” he explained. “We bottled and there was a change of temperature.”
The spike reignited dormant yeasts, leading to an unexpected little frenzy. Silva was surprised when he opened a bottle for the first time.
“We got a spritzy thing,” he said.
When effervescence builds in the bottle, the results can be, well, disappointing. But the 2011 Don Angel Viognier is proof of happy accidents.
The aroma of apricots left on the tree until ready to split spills from the rim. Hints of peach and spicy wood trail, along with an unusual impression of crushed white grape pomace. That’s right, wine rarely ever reveals its true roots, but a distinct trace of burst grape skin smattered on stone comes through — at least on the nose.
On the palate the wine shrugs off any indication of must, showing measure after measure of fresh stone fruit — apricot and peach, with an edge of citrus. It’s a brisk wine, almost reminiscent of a standout Gewurztraminer — except that on the finish the procession of fruit draws along a pleasant note of earthiness, with hints of dry grass, dropping blossoms and parched fennel.
It is an unexpected and thoroughly enjoyable wine.
“Sometimes accidents turn out good,” Silva noted with a smile.
There is just a hint of effervescence to the mouthfeel. But Don Angel’s 2011 Viognier also notable for its overcast appearance.
You see, where most winemakers filter their product for clarity, Silva decided to skip the process. As a result, the wine carries a turbid aspect. Put it through the clarity test and you will see a dense hue.
Silva doesn’t mind the cloudy appearance and fizzing tears. It’s an old school, old world approach, after all.
“Unfiltered is nice — it’s just that some people have a perception,” he pointed out. “But it’s a really nice wine.”
Indeed, it’s a really nice surprise.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
