In the mad science world of blending, Bryan Kane tops even the great doctors of fiction for creativity and flair.
His 2011 Sol Rouge red blend known as Gypsy Rouge involves six varietals. The wine leans on Grenache and its red berry pleasantries, at just over three quarters of the blend. But Kane also mixes in Mourvedre (13 percent), Syrah (4 percent, Counoise and Cinsault (3 percent each) and a trace of Petite Sirah for a deep, inky color.
On the nose Gypsy Rouge tempts with a jumble of red fruits and mixed berries. The jingle of strawberry leads, but the rest is a tossed basket — all ripe and fresh. But there are perilous shadows under all the cheer. Split acacia, raspy clove, nettles and black peppercorns conspire in the background. In between, an offering of roses and a hint of Christmas spice yearn for a truce.
How can you resist such a come on?
A sip casts a toasted, bittersweet pall over the cask of fruits and berries, as if someone drizzled dark brewed coffee over the freshly picked produce. After a moment of earthy repose, the bright flavors reemerge and take control.
At mid-palate the Gypsy Rouge flashes royal colors — plush blackberry contending with juicy strawberry and raspberry, with hints of plum loitering in the rear.
While this plays out on the front of the palate, sparks of pepper, scorched vanilla bean and French roast haunt the back. Your senses tip between light and dark before embracing the balance.
It’s the complex thrill of infatuation playing out, sip after sip. There are moments that flash brightly countered by time brooding alone. In between, a flush of anticipation, dread and exultation toss you this way and that until you settle in.
Simply put, the 2011 Sol Rouge Gypsy Rouge is a dazzling, brilliant wine.
Dave Faries can be reached at 707-900-2016
