The Wet Weasel at Kelsey Creek Brewing is clearly a wheat beer. Light and crisp, with a waft of citrus and a pinch of spice it makes for a refreshing summer sipper.
But somewhere along the line Jason Chavez’s brew decided to shed the wane reputation of the wheat beer style and bulk up. Wet Weasel may be slender in body, but it can hit with power.
In this case, the performance enhancing drug of choice was ten pounds of freshly harvested Lake County hops, introduced into a blend of malted barley and malted wheat. The wet hop process lends a bright aspect on the nose — an edge of orange zest and grapefruit shearing through waving stalks of dry grain.
The contribution of Gargoyle hops to the flavor profile is even more pronounced. Wet Weasel treads lightly at first, taking a few gentle warm up swings on the palate. This clean, deft introduction, however, doesn’t prepare you for the muscular finish.
As it steps to the plate, a glowering juniper bitterness begins to show. This gathers strength, wrapping around your palate, providing a neat contrast to the dry malt foundation.
The finish is smooth, brisk and robust, all at the same time. Rustic pine counters soft grains, with hints of earthy spice in between.
It’s a beautifully balanced swing — powerful in flavor, delicate in body.
“I wanted something lighter,” Chavez said. “We’ve been selling it like crazy.”
Kelsey Creek’s Wet Weasel is suited to warm afternoons, certainly. Yet it also fulfills the desire for a layered brew, something that will engage those who value complexity.
Chavez had intended to replicate the wheat beer served by previous Kelsey Creek brewer Ron Chips. But in a twist of fortune, he could not locate the recipe. Instead, Chavez applied his own twist to the classic American wheat beer recipe.
Essentially, he treated it like a lager.
“I went in lower at mash temperature,” he explained. The process yields more fermentable sugars, allowing the yeast to gorge.
“It dries out the beer,” Chavez said.
The result is a level wheat flavor throughout, which allows the nice resinous bite of hops and the grounded spice room to grow.
No wonder it’s so popular. Wet Weasel is a good, clean hit.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
