Blame it all on the roots.
Well, at least chalk it up to the soil — the ruddy, volcanic foundation of Lake County. Of all the micro-AVAs identified in the region, the area fanning south from Mt. Konocti forms the largest and, to some, the most distinct in terms of terroir.
“I’m becoming a big fan of the Red Hills for red wine,” observed Boatique winemaker Luke Bass.
His confidence in the viticultural magic of the Red Hills soared after his crew bottled the 2014 Boatique Petite Sirah. On the nose, a puree of plum and blueberry offer a cheerful welcome, before ushering you to a chaise of plush velour.
The room you’ve entered is layered with tradition — chiseled wood, kettles of black English tea, a rich patina. Drifting throughout, that beaming embrace of fruit.
And that is just the bouquet.
Ripe fruits again cradle the palate, developing into a dense compote. This hearty turn picks up on the varietal’s earthier undertones. Hints of cured tea, dark baking chocolate and tilled loam lurked under the condensing plum and blueberry sensation, creating intrigue and balance.
On the finish, flecks of pepper again spark the fruits to life. It’s a wonderful sip.
The 2014 Petite Sirah from Boatique is deep in color and full bodied. Surprisingly, however, it offers only a glimpse of its tannic structure until long after the glass is rinsed and the bottle tucked away. The lingering reminder of fruit and pomace gains purchase slowly, so the savor of the Petite Sirah lasts nicely.
“I find the tannins in the Red Hills to be supple, not nearly as brutal as you expect,” Bass said. “It’s very smooth.”
The winemaker produced only 22 cases of Boatique’s first Petite Sirah. He fermented in bins and matured it in French oak, the wood proven once — lively enough to impart some character, yet experienced through a year of use to show reserve.
His only trick was to employ an old world Bordeaux yeast, knowing it would lend predictability to the tiny batch of wine.
“The small ferments are the ones that give you the most trouble,” Bass explained.
But the finished product shows no evidence of stress. It is a beautiful wine, one that the winery expects to build upon. Boatique plans to offer 100 cases of the next vintage, aiming eventually for a steady 250 cases.
The addition will be to our advantage. Already half of the 22 cases of 2014 Petite Sirah have been hoarded or enjoyed by consumers.
Meanwhile, Bass continues to marvel at Lake County terroir.
“The altitude, the quality of the light, the heat — tasting that I was quite pleased,” he said of the wine. “It has a delicacy to it.”
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
