When Amy Thorn released her 2013 Thorn Hill Volcanic Cabernet Sauvignon, there were two consequences.
First, the stampede of eager wine club members almost emptied her stock — and likely left tasting room staff in a disheveled state. Then, after the dust settled and she was able to evaluate her wine again, Thorn almost challenged herself to a duel.
Well, figuratively. While Thorn Hill tends to vineyards in Lake County’s Red Hills AVA, they also operate out of more exclusive regions. Yet the 2013 with local provenance left her feeling divided.
“I’ll put my Red Hills Cabernet against my Napa Cabernet any day,” Thorn said.
Although a young wine, it breathes a wealth of blackberry and split plum. Strands of suede leather weave through the rich fruit, balancing sweet aromas with a sensation of earth and tanned hide. Allow it to decant and a flow of milk chocolate drapes the berries.
The first indication of the Thorn Hill Volcanic Cabernet Sauvignon’s true quality appears mid-palate. After a gavotte with dark fruit and berry compote and a moment alone with decadent chocolate, strains of tannic leather appear. They bring the fruits down to earth, softening the finish into a slow sample of beautiful jam.
That transition — the appearance of parched tannins — suggests this wine will improve in the bottle for a couple decades and threaten to topple more lauded and expensive labels.
“It’s going to be phenomenal,” Thorn agreed. “The Red Hills has the potential to create wines that age for 20 plus years.”
Earlier vintages of Thorn Hills Cabernet Sauvignon have earned their share of accolades. But Thorn believes terroir, fruit and experience aligned in the 2013. She picked carefully through the different clones and tweaked the oak profile, resting the wine for 26 months in French barrels with a greater percentage of new wood. The wine is unfined and unfiltered for an old world charm.
Remarkably, it shows itself beautifully now, even as it whispers of its promise in the future.
“It’s young yet,” Thorn said, observing that the wine should decant for 20 to 30 minutes. “As it opens it reveals its layers.”
The rush of aficionados wishing to stash cases of the 2013 caused her to save bottles at the tasting room to satisfy demand. It remains available, despite the dwindling stock.
It also left Thorn wish renewed appreciation of local terroir.
“I’m crazy about the Red Hills,” she said. “It’s that volcanic quality. It makes the vines struggle.”
And anyone who purchased a case to store for the future may just struggle to keep it out of range of their corkscrew now — the third and final consequence of Thorn’s decision to release the wine.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
