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Those who open restaurants face one particularly daunting challenge. Even more than training new staff, developing a menu, wading through regulations and spreading the word that they exist, restaurateurs must control growth spurts.

Oh, they hope to attract guest and court regulars. But in the first month of operation, avoiding turbulence — the impact of a dinner rush wave crashing down on unprepared staff, the long slumps that prey on morale — is preferable.

So Terri Dias opened in The Pit Stop location quietly a month ago. She kept the menu simple, paring it down to burgers, fish and chips, hot dogs and other diner staples. She even held on to the old restaurant’s name.

“A lot of people know The Pit Stop,” Dias explained.

The muted approach allowed her and the line cooks to smooth over the little creases that often trip up overly ambitious openings. Now they readily flip hearty hamburgers, scored by the grill until a comforting bittersweet crust develops.

“I didn’t want to get in over my head,” Dias said of the first month. “It went pretty smooth.”

The patties are handmade and presented in a paper wrap that barely stems the rich, juicy savor. Her burgers evoke memories of the American road, the familiar diner, the brawny heft of beef that caused us to boast, to crave to romanticize the simple arrangement of meet and bun. The restaurant’s hot dog list includes a classic chili dog and Dias raves about the fish and chips.

But this is a menu still in its infancy. Already the team has created a few specials. And Dias plans to add chili, other soups and American comfort fare as they progress — simple, satisfying dishes.

Of course, the previous iteration of The Pit Stop was known for its ribs. Dias, however, abides by the wisdom in caution. Slow cooking and smoke are culinary fiends, quite willing to punish haste or inattention.

Dias desires to get things right.

“It’s not that I don’t want to do ribs,” she pointed out. “But we just opened. I haven’t even set up the barbecue yet.”

There is more to come.

Before taking an office position, Dias spent many years in the service industry. Although it has been two decades since she worked behind a counter. She combines a rookie’s eagerness with a veteran’s poise.

The Pit Stop’s location and openness — perched on the lake with plenty of windows and a covered patio — convinced Dias of the restaurant’s year round potential. Oh — and there was a matter of convenience.

“It’s beautiful,” she said, beginning to laugh. “It’s right on the lake and it’s close to my house. I can drive my boat to work.”

Yes, Dias’ vision for The Pit Stop is all about comfort, from commute to cooking. And that’s a good place to start.

Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016

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