Sometimes we toss around the phrase “kitchen sink” far too casually, employing it as a stand in for “a lot.”
In the case of Moore Family’s 2012 Bottlerock Red, however, one can turn the phrase accurately. Beau Moore indeed adds a little of each red varietal used by the winery — Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, Merlot … right down to Charbono.
“We used to do it for fun for the family,” Moore said with a chuckle. “Me and dad sat down and grabbed a bit of everything.”
For the 2012 vintage, the winemaker decided to expand production beyond a few cases. This time, with more than friends and family to please, the two debated back and forth over different blends. One preferred bigger fruits, the other sought to bring out subtle background notes. As happens in such cases, they eventually reached a compromise.
Their bargain led to a clever, enjoyable food friendly wine that speaks with the authority of Cabernet Sauvignon, cloaks itself like Syrah yet treads delicately on the finish. It is so nimble that, like a prized Pinot Noir, it would pair beautifully with Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner.
Aromas of dark berries and black cherries spill from the glass. Beneath this, a rustic character lurks — worn like well used leather, earthy as black olives, with traces of cigar smoke and cocoa, sparked by black pepper. Yet a bright trill of raspberry lifts above the deeper notes.
The jam of blackberry, blueberry and dark cherry gather on the palate at first. Instead of bursting as a fruit bomb, however, they pause to allow more dilatory flavors to catch up. When hints of cured tobacco, mocha, cracked pepper and dried clove slink up to the rich berry jam, it teeters for a moment between sweet natured and brooding.
Yet the cheery nature of Charbono steps in, transforming this wayward instant into something plush and bright. The acidic varietal gives a light, lean feel, despite the flavorful intrigue. The wine finishes with a drape of genteel fruit as a fresh plum note eases over the senses.
Moore fermented each varietal separately in American oak before he and his father settled on an appropriate blend. The majority is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, with varying percentages of the others.
“I’m happy with it,” Moore said. “We are getting ready to do next year’s.”
Maybe Moore will again decide to turn out a few hundred cases instead of the friends and family allotment. Good things happen when he and his father dip from barrels of everything in the winery.
Yep, everything and … well, no — they probably don’t blend in the kitchen sink.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
