A blend crafted with both ingenuity and respect for centuries of tradition develops the capacity to astound.
Even though winemakers pull off the stunt with apparent ease, it’s no ordinary accomplishment. Convention requires you to remain true to the bounds of region, terroir and method. Creativity, on the other hand, urges you to bust free, to not only question the rules but also topple them with an unexpected fling.
An example of such a wine can be found in Brassfield’s 2015 Serenity Reserve. A blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer — three of the traditional Alsatian grapes — it appears at first to be a nod to respected Grand Crus. But the team at Brassfield ignored the usual limits, fermenting in oak barrels, stainless steel and — wait for it — concrete.
“Every material is present, except plastic,” said winemaker Matt Hughes, a recent addition to the crew responsible in this vintage for its final stages. “It’s a cool wine.”
Although composed largely of Pinot Gris, at 65 percent of the blend, the lustier Gewurztraminer introduces the vivacious grape to streets where virtue eases and iniquity reigns. Instead of bright citrus and unblemished peach, one senses aromas wizened by the experience. Lemon has been spun with cream into a curd. Apple and pear dipped in honey and baked. Each impression has gained a depth, a richness.
On the palate these become flirtatious, willing to embrace one moment and become distant the next. Under the bite of ripe citrus and the lean, crisp snap of apple a luxurious creamy velour drapes and then lifts. Hints of gingered honey, sliced melon and exotic fruits loll for a moment and slink away. A floral whisper adds to the longing as the finish wanes.
It’s a gorgeous wine.
“Lots of lees stirring — that’s pretty much the secret,” Hughes said.
But there is a greater amount of craft in the Serenity Reserve than the winemaker might allow. For white varietals, the grapes are big — loaded with fruit and often strapped with tannins.
“You end up with a pretty sizeable wine if you’re not careful,” Hughes acknowledged.
Hence the willingness to play with materials. Stainless steel lifts the bright fruit sheen, emphasizing the lemon, apple, peach, lychee and other varietal traits. The barrels — neutral oak — temper the starlet glamor of these same fruits. Leaving each on its lees for an extended time adds depth and that creamy sensation.
The clever bit comes when they turned to concrete. A lot of concrete.
More an more, winemakers are employing concrete tanks in varying sizes and shapes. The solid yet porous material exposes wine to enough air to develop character, yet interacts in a way distinct from wood and steel.
“The concrete breathes like a barrel, without the oak,” Hughes explained. “And it adds something to the palate, a minerality.”
It’s an astounding piece of work, yet Brassfield makes it seem effortless.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
