Some people celebrate 25 years with a toast. When wineries hit the quarter century mark, they give us something special to toast with.
On their 25th anniversary in 2013, the folks at Wildhurst Vineyards decided to mark the date with a blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah and Merlot — something they labeled “Legend.”
And why not? The wine strides with confidence, broad shoulders swinging and ready for action, its gaze keen and call persuasive. A cask of ripe blackberries and blueberries spill forth from the glass, trailing bright plum in its aromatic wake. The plush, juicy sensation is balanced on the nose by the bitter snap of black pepper and the rustic warmth of curing figs — an earthy weight preventing the bright berries from soaring in to the distance.
Undaunted, rich berries cascade over the palate with each sip. Blackberries and blueberries roil into a bold jam — dense, yet also fresh and bursting. Again, however, Legend begins to balance itself. Black pepper and rolled tobacco tether the dark berries, a smooth flow of milk chocolate paces the flavors, draping over earthy fig and dried leaves.
Although strident and muscular, the wine allows chirping hints of cherry and raspberry to nip around the edges. Although overloaded with ripe berries, it settles on the finish, easing into soft leather comfort, surrounded by staid oak walls and soothed by warm cocoa.
It’s a surprisingly gracious finish to the lusty introduction.
What winemakers Banyon Kirkendall and Stephen Dilley achieved is a wine of superlative balance. The bounding fruits and berries are corralled by earthier notes both on the nose and the palate. Lighter notes rally around, spurred by Merlot, but do not temp a stampede. Stern tannic rails hewn from Petite Sirah define the scene, adding structure. And the setting becomes almost serene.
So just when the phrase “fruit forward” occurs, Legend reminds you of its pensive wisdom. It’s a wonderful reminder of the craft — and why some wines are destined by become Legend.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
