As the 2016 winegrape harvest wraps up, almost all Lake County winemakers find themselves in agreement on at least two points.
First, the quality of this year’s grapes promises an exceptional vintage, once bottles reach the shelves. But last weekend’s rain could have spelled disaster for some thin skinned varietals.
“When they said 4 inches, that was daunting” Joy Merrilees of Shannon Ridge said, referring to initial forecasts. “That would have been a game changer.”
Winemakers dread heavy blows from rain during harvest. Thin skinned grapes, such as Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, gorge on water, which can lead to rot. Hardier varietals left in the field become more difficult to reach as soggy soil stalls vehicles. A fall rain can even cause labor problems, as the temporary workforce scatters in search of dry vineyards.
But Lake County’s high elevation vineyards escaped damage from the rain. Many wineries had finished picking and moved on to crush and fermentation by the time the storm arrived. Others recorded easily manageable amounts of precipitation.
“I was worried about the Mourvedre,” said Jim Fore of Fore Family Vineyards, “but the Mourvedre made it fine.”
Fore expects to pick the remaining Syrah and Mourvedre this weekend before the next round of rain, expected on Monday. Like other winemakers, he praised the quality of this year’s grapes.
“We had easy weather, we had good heat, everything is more on track,” he said. “This could be a great vintage.”
“This is the best harvest I’ve seen at Shannon Ridge,” Merriless agreed. “Good color, great concentration — the flavors are intense.”
She anticipates pulling the last grapes from the field on Sunday.
After years of progressively earlier harvests under drought conditions, winter rains nudging things back toward normal. Instead of picking toward the end of July, many wineries began working the fields in mid to late August.
“I can’t look at this year as a drought year,” said Gregory Graham. “We got our rain in the winter. It was almost a perfect season.”
The owner and winemaker for Gregory Graham Wines completed harvest before the wet weather hit. He again emphasized the peak flavors of the 2016 grapes.
“The quality is excellent,” he noted. “And the quantity is up.”
Debra Sommerfield, President of the Lake County Winegrape Commission, said that growers across the county are reporting above average yields when it comes to white varietals. For reds, the call is a little more difficult to make. Depending upon location, yields of red varietals may be higher, lower or close to normal.
This reflects statewide crop estimates. According to the California Department of Food and Agriculture, this year’s harvest will hit close to the historical average of 3.9 million tons.
The numbers bode well, especially for those who measure economic impact. Wine Institute President and CEO Robert P. Koch explains that California wine’s economic contribution to the state economy is $57.6 billion annually. Wine produced in California add $114 billion annually to the U.S. economy.
While winemakers appreciate the effect on their wallets, they tend to measure value their labels based upon quality. Throughout the state’s wine regions report a spike in quality similar to Lake County.
“It’s been a good season so far—the grapes are in great condition, showcasing spectacular flavors,” said Randy Ullom, winemaster at Kendall-Jackson Wines, with vineyards in Sonoma County and statewide.
In Paso Robles, anticipated El Niño rainfall was less than hoped for (eight inches), but was still greater than in the prior four vintages of drought, said Jeff Meier, director of winemaking/president, J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines.
“Yield projections for 2016 were slightly below long-term averages, but most varieties are coming in at or above estimates — a welcome outcome for Paso Robles growers,” Meier said.
Cathy Corison, owner and winemaker at Corison Winery in Napa Valley is equally pleased. “The entire ripening season enjoyed cooler than average daytime highs and cold nights — perfect for inky, complex wines,” she explained. “Measured in pace, it was also easy on the winemakers.”
The parched 2015 summer and baking sun shortened the growing season so dramatically harvest lasted only a month from start to finish in many Lake County vineyards unaffected by fires. This year’s effort spanned almost three months.
“It’s been an extended, well paced harvest,” Sommerfield observed. “Labor is tight, but we had enough.”
Lake County lost one winery — Terrill Cellars in Lower Lake — to the Clayton Fire. Otherwise local operations escaped the concerns of 2015. Winemakers battled only one real foe through the 2016 season.
“I did have an issue with the Muscat,” said Dustin Fults of Fults Family Vineyards and Langtry Estate. “The birds had a nice buffet on the Muscat.”
Waiting for his Syrah and Mourvedre to peak this weekend, Fore expresed a similar worry.
“I’m sitting here looking at my grapes,” he said with a laugh. “The birds, foxes and coyotes are also looking at them.”
He planned to begin harvesting the last crop this morning. By Tuesday all but varietals destined for late harvest wines should be in.
If all continues according to plan, the first Sauvignon Blancs will reach bottling stage toward the end of January. The first bottles of what everyone expects to be an outstanding vintage will reach tasting rooms a few months later.
“It’s good to say ‘we’re wrapping up a stellar harvest,’” Sommerfield said.
