Matthew Metcalf’s curriculum vitae speaks of urbane fashion and culinary flair.
His Bay Area destination, Asia SF, fused flavors from the Pacific rim so well it held three stars from notoriously precise critic Michael Bauer for a decade. He followed up with a bistro that soon required 40 line cooks to keep up with demand. And during his stint at Black Rock Restaurant on Cobb, his work drew raves.
But Metcalf is a surprisingly grounded chef. He treats burgers, foie gras, fried chicken and mahi mahi with the same care.
“You make good food and people will come, that’s always my mantra,” he said.
Indeed, his most vivid culinary memory stirs not from visits to Michelin star dining rooms, but a more rustic kitchen. As a child he would hustle over to his grandmother’s house on weekends, hoping to beg a meatball or two before she started on the spaghetti and sauce.
“The simple foods — those create more memories than the fancy things,” Metcalf observed.
He took over the Greenview Restaurant in Hidden Valley Lake on Friday with a plan. Metcalf does not intend to bring a taste of hipster San Francisco to Lake County. Instead, he hopes to showcase local produce, seasonal ingredients and deft technique through a menu of burgers, chops, pasta and other familiar foods.
Technique — blanching the fries, pulling the pasta from heat at the razor thin edge of al dente — will set the kitchen apart.
Again, he treats fine dining and everyday fare with equal respect.
“Whatever the style, it can be done properly,” Metcalf said.
The Greenview sits adjacent to Hidden Valley Lake’s golf course, serving as clubhouse and bar in addition to restaurant. It serves the community — homeowner dues support the place — but only occasionally draws outside attention.
Metcalf intends to change that. On Tuesday he met with contractors to discuss the tired décor. He is reaching out to local farmers and Lake County wineries. Because knowledge and consistency are critical, he is drafting a training regimen for restaurant staff. In addition to rounds of post-round Bud Light, he wants to dress the bar with classic cocktails.
Yet Metcalf backs away from the notion of trendy. After all, he lives in Hidden Valley, plays golf on the course and loves the county’s casual nature.
“I’m working for my neighbors,” he said. “Part of my goal is to make people who live in this community really proud. If you listen to your guests, it’s amazing how much great feedback you get.”
So he expects to listen, improve in steps. But he also knows Greenview could become a draw for the entire county and beyond.
It’s a balancing act.
“The right thing in the right place,” Metcalf said, setting the limits to ambition. “This is what I do — and there are so many good things in Lake County from a culinary standpoint.”
Although he just started, he set his expectations rather high, plotting an ingredient driven menu bolstered by technique. But he also anchored himself to dishes both familiar and fulfilling.
“I’m a comfort food person,” Metcalf concluded.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
