Jim Fore is not a stickler, at least when it comes to acronyms.
His popular Fore Family GSM — a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre drawn from Rhone tradition — generally lines up in order. For the 2013 vintage, however, the Kelseyville winemaker allotted half the barrel space to Syrah, with Grenache and Mourvedre in lesser proportions.
Yep, an SGM.
“Syrah is a beautiful grape in Lake County,” Fore explained. “And that year Syrah seemed to be the king.”
It commands the bouquet, lending prominent aromas of blackberry compote, dark chocolate and earthy spice that rise over a cheering court of lighter fruits — plum, raspberry — tossing rose petals in the air. The Grenache provides the adoration of red berries on the nose. Mourvedre plays the role of a trusted confidant, strengthening the Syrah’s dark berry resolve.
Fore’s 2013 GSM shows a remarkable depth and structure on the nose, with well-ordered layers supporting the Syrah’s reign. Yet these are given an amount of free will on the palate.
Fresh blackberries and rich stewed blueberries lavish the palate, rolling out a plush and noble carpet for what follows. Curling smoke from a Montecristo, the tread of compacted soil, the soothing comfort of bittersweet chocolate, the smiling, rough edged trough of allspice — these begin to vie for attention under the dark berries.
A hint of bright red berries colors the fringes before conceding to the earthier masses. Eventually these develop into a finish that is laced with pepper and cured plum.
“That’s the Mourvedre, with that pepper and structure,” Fore pointed out.
The winemaker fermented the varietals separately and rested the wine for 18 months in predominately neutral oak, selected for its relatively benign temperament.
“It just seemed that it was already a big wine,” Fore said.
But the accomplish is the result of patient — though probably not that vexing — rounds of sampling, mixing and tasting again.
Parched drought conditions bulked up the Syrah. This allowed it to serve as both crown and servant in the blend, providing the foundation for other flavors while directing the aromas. It’s a noble wine, call it what you will — GSM or the more accurate SGM.
“I think we got the structure right,” Fore observed. “It’s been one of our better selling wines.”
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
