The vineyard owned by Olof and her winemaker husband Erik, initially sold grapes to other operations. In addition to more familiar varietals, they found welcome ground for Nebbiolo and Petit Verdot — less recognized, but no less valuable names.
Years ago leftover grapes proved too great a temptation.
Erik Olof’s passion shows in his 2012 Petit Verdot.
A varietal prized for its lack of restraint, packing coiled fruit into each sip and an entire flower shop on the bouquet, is generally added in careful dabs to bulk up weaker reds. But Olof is one of the few daring winemakers to realize its beauty as a standalone.
He produces a deceptive wine. On the nose it is surprisingly light. Instead of bold dark fruits and blooming violets, hints of lush stonefruit and glistening watermelon prance over the denser notes of cherry pomace and mocha. It almost forces you to swirl the glass again, looking for confirmation of the grape listed on Olof’s label.
But this is a ruse. At the first sip his Petit Verdot uncoils and strikes, pummeling the palate with bowls of cherry and overripe plum. It is hefty and rich and rippling with muscular tannins. Crushed hazelnut and brewed vanilla add depth to the fruit, lending a sensation of sober composure behind the onslaught.
Again, however, the wine surprises you. The intense savor of Olof’s Petit Verdot is ringed by light floral notes and fresh red berries — indications the wine lacks any brooding malice. Indeed, the impression of freshly plucked petals dominate on the finish, balancing a raspy smack of dried herbs and work oak.
It’s a wonderful experience.
The secret? Well, according to Cindi Olof, the wine owes its character to centuries of experience — and expediency. European winemakers of days past worked without precise climate control and other tricks. They relied on terroir, yeast, wood and time.
“You could describe us as old world,” she said.
Olof picked at 24 brix, settled his wine into new French oak and allowed it to sit there for three long years.
Of course, it remains — in part — a glorified hobby, as well as a passion and a business. Olof produced only two barrels of the 2012 Petit Verdot.
It’s worth collecting a few bottles before they disappear.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
Dave Faries — Lake County Publishing
The 2012 Petit Verdot from the Olof lineup.
