There is a story. And you will have plenty of time to hear it.
So why did Jason Chavez label his Kelsey Creek Brewing Imperial Stout “Lemmy” when the swarthy, obsidian pitch of the beer as it settles into the glass calls for a name more stern and solid?
Well, if you allow him to spin the tale, you will be rewarded. As the beer warms to its environment — the slick and ornamental wood of the bar, the dusting of discarded peanut shells on the floor, the accustomed conversation swelling through the room — it begins to open up.
Lemmy’s personality appears simple, at least initially. The aromas are mellow and almost nutty, a nostalgic morning table of toasted bread, muffins and percolating coffee. But the first taste ignites a fuse. It sputters for a moment, sending out sparks of light malt, toffee and cafe Americano. When it catches, however, the impact is resounding.
A belt of deeply roasted black coffee, intense and bitter, bursts over the palate. The detonation is followed by a veil of fruit cured until black and potent — dates and raisins in a profound combination at once earthy and sweet.
This is, on first impression, a strident and muscular brew in the best sense. You want to dare its glowering stare, to tempt it to take another swing so you can experience again that rush.
In this case, however, it is wise to pace yourself. Chavez’s Imperial Stout packs more than 10 percent alcohol and he limits guests to three glasses.
Besides, after a few minutes Lemmy develops a complex, contemplative side to its character. The scorched black coffee mellows into cappuccino — rich and bitter, but with a creamy comfort. The dried fruit arrives with dark chocolate alongside. A hint of toasted almond drifts through.
It remains a big, powerful beer, sure. Only now Lemmy invites you to cozy up alongside.
“I wanted a comfortable beer,” Chavez said. “I didn’t do a lot of roast because I didn’t want it too astringent.”
He milled several malts, including the base Irish malt, chocolate malt, black patent malt and few others (“I lost count,” Chavez joked), adding oats for a fuller texture and brown sugar to enhance the burnished notes. He treads lightly with the hops, allowing the malts more room for expression.
Lemmy developed its magnetic temperament from Chavez’s care during the brewing process. He mashed at a lower temperature to mute the residual sugars. He worked in small batches and boiled for a longer period.
“When you boil longer, that increases the concentration of flavors,” he explained.
The Lemmy Imperial Stout is magnificent — brooding, scowling, dark, conversant, sophisticated and friendly all at once.
“I’ll have to do another batch, I guess,” Chavez said.
By then you will have forgotten the story behind the name. You will be eager to ask him to tell it again.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
