You know those gilded taverns where mixologists labor over exotic liqueurs and fresh picked, gently muddled herbs, right? These are where Marc Jacobs, Hugo Boss, Marni and Balenciaga roam, where the room is viewed as real estate and a round of vodka martinis would empty the average bank account.
It is of some value to see and be seen, of course. But every once in awhile you just want to pull on a worn sweatshirt and hang out at the local dive.
There are wines for occasion and comfort, as well.
People who consider themselves serious about — you know, the snobs — spend considerable breath on the virtues of cabernet sauvignon, barolo and the storied Bordeaux blends. And, to be sure, contemplative wines deserve to be lauded.
For those more informal gatherings, however, there is a jovial wine that just seems to suit familiar conversation and easy smiles.
“Barberas are fun,” said Smiling Dogs winemaker Scott Simkover.
Indeed, his 2014 barbera showers you with inviting aromas. An open-armed welcome of plum and cherry, a sweeping gesture of colorful fall leaves and warm, earthy spice, a bouquet tossed across the room — these embrace you with enthusiasm. The buoyant impression is balanced by hints of orange zest and baked clove, promising a little intrigue.
A sip renews the gaiety, as lively fruits — plum and cherry — spill across the palate. Bright berry flavors flit around the edges and a floral note like orange blossoms and swaying violets swirls through.
Of course, revelry can only be sustained so long. More rustic, grounded thoughts emerge on the finish as hints of nutmeg and clove deepen the mood, tipping everything back into balance.
This is barbera at its best — bright and acidic, with an obvious lust for life, yet at the same time dark and settled.
Simkover selected grapes from two different vineyards, Rosa d’Oro and Olof. Both plots receive plenty of sun and the decision to split the harvest evenly seems well considered.
“I’d like to claim credit for being wise in advance,” Simkover said. “But barbera does well in Lake County because it’s really hot.”
He points out that the harvest that year was impressive. With drought stressing the vines and a long, searing dry spell as grapes peaked, the flavors concentrated. He simply cornered it in American oak for 12 months and began pouring.
Most winemakers deny their hand in producing single varietals, however marvelous. Still, it requires an appreciation of the terroir and growing season, of the mathematics behind pH and brix, of the effect of wood.
And it takes a winemaker who understands that, no matter how much we like to show off our collectible bottles, we are always drawn back — when surrounded by familiar faces — to that one that was just good fun.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
