We talk a lot about food. We praise our favorite dishes, share our impression of new restaurants, rush to enter our opinion of plating or spice or just about any aspect of dining into a conversation.
But how often does a mere side dish come to dominate the conversation? OK, maybe a stunning plate of lump crab or roasted quail, but potato salad?
The Bacon Bacon Potato Salad at Greenview Restaurant in Hidden Valley Lake brings table talk to a sudden stop at first bite. Then causes a verbal ovation that carries on long after the bill has been paid.
Tossed with firm and faintly earthy chunks of potato, the bacon responds with a lean, smoky offering that adds a swarthy savor. Under this, the renderings seep in, providing a plush foundation and bittersweet edge.
A deft shower of earthy spice tugs at the acrid, grounded notes and your palate begins to teeter between the rising smoke and the plunging seasoning. A nibble of heat spurs this debate while a pop like stone ground mustard can be heard from the pits.
Oh, and the texture — meaty and gentle, crisp and substantial …
It’s almost impossible to stop.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
