Blink and you might miss Steele Wines’ plot of tempranillo. Even at a stroll, the vines pass by quickly.
“It’s half an acre — well, less than half an acre,” said Steele General Manager Dave Ostberg. “We thought it had potential.”
It produces a classic tempranillo. The 2014 vintage offers exuberant fruit without straying into fruit bomb territory. And the elegant undertones lend an air of refinement that does not spoil its pleasant nature.
It opens with aromas of fresh cherries tumbled with cool vanilla and nibs of milk chocolate. This gentle embrace calms the fruit. After the initial gush, the bouquet settles into a more courtly pace, trailed by lightly tanned leather.
Again on the palate the fruits are vivid at first. The cherry leave a jubilant impression, urged on by frisking plum — it’s ripe and saucy, toned only by the bite of clove. As the celebration of fruit settles, however, earthier nuance begins to emerge. Spice is joined by a hint of cocoa and a dash of vanilla.
As it slows to a finish, the wine takes on a rustic hue, leaving traces of dark cured tobacco and soft leather to complement the reminder of clove and chocolate.
Potential indeed.
“It has a really beautiful chocolate,” Steele’s Raven Sprague agreed. “And definitely the baking spices are there.”
The small plot produced just 95 cases. Winemaker Jed Steele and his crew first allowed it to rest for 18 months in French oak, all with previous employment to hone the effect of wood. Although the fruits remain bright, there is a cultured aspect to the 2014 zinfandel — one that suggests respect rather than formality.
“It’s nice to deal with wines that have subtleties,” Ostberg said.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
