Scones and fruitcake share one thing in common. Too many people dismiss the breads, often in disparaging terms.
Perhaps there is some cause for this. While fruitcake must suffer the scorn earned — justly, in most cases — from cheap tins adorned with the dim color of gelatinous fruit, scones fall into disfavor thanks to the heavy, arid versions sold at so many shops.
But the take and bake frozen scones prepared by People Pleazin’ Pantry in Upper Lake are nothing like the dry, clunky biscuits masquerading as scones. No, these are the dense, moist and effortlessly graceful breads that made scones an English tea time treat.
They are proper scones.
Follow the baking instructions of People Pleazin’ owner Carli Tippett and you will find reason to reach for the clotted cream. The lemon-poppy seed version, for example, offers a nutty caress under the shimmering gaze of citrus.
The lemon seems to lilt through the cake, making you aware of its presence without turning attention from the elegant moment. A desultory rattle of poppy seed — distant and faint — lends an earthy note to the pleasantries. The crust crumbles with a snap, sending flecks of salt to balance the easy sweetness.
Somehow, the cake itself appears to promise some weight. Instead, however, they are elegant and surprisingly light.
Their eloquence will carry the day. After a moment with Tippett’s scones, one will never speak ill of scones again.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
