The last time the plot devoted to Thorn Hill’s old vine zinfandel produced something other than grapes was, um … let’s see …
Well, you have to go back quite a while.
The root stock first planted in 1886 yields an intense wine. The 2012 vintage earned a big chunk of gold at the California state fair and the 2013 is just as fervent.
Aromas of dense blueberry jam and curing plum drift from the glass, sparked by cracked black peppercorns so distinct one can almost sense the coarse and rippled bark. As the conniving spice claws through the rich fruit, a gentle note of dark chocolate flows in. This tranquil counter allows faint traces of vanilla dipped lavender and lightly cured tobacco to slip in.
It promises an extravagant experience.
On the palate the fruits are even more profound. They speak of decades condensed into moments — blueberries stewed and reduced into an intense jam, plums dried down until the flavors have little room to huddle, figs fallen from the tree.
Again this is eased by an opulent chocolate, dark and bittersweet. Hints of vanilla and smoked clove curl over this while a light edge like split balsa flits around the edges. Throughout — and particularly on the finish — the hoarse rasp of freshly cracked pepper adds intrigue.
Now that is time well spent.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
