If you remember the earlier editions of Wildhurst’s Home Ranch zinfandel, you might anticipate bright, fresh jammy flavors.
But this was 2013. With drought parching vineyards high and low, the grapes puckered early. The balance of sugar and acidity teetered precariously. Vines turned their backs on promise. They tempted and teased, rewarding those who timed the harvest just right.
Instead of a fine and lively wine, the season granted Wildhurst a more muscular zinfandel. Alcohol levels flexed and flavors bulked.
Oh, the tantrums of terroir might seem daunting to the lay person. But then Wildhurst winemaker Banyon Kirkendahl only found beauty in the twist of seasons. Swirl the glass and this excess becomes obvious. Aromas of plum jam and split blueberries greet your effort. Although the sharp whip of split cedar hacks at the rich promise of the wine, it cannot cut through. Instead, more subdued impressions of black licorice and light smoky tobacco offer balance.
There is a savory aspect to Wildhurst’s 2013 zinfandel. Yes, hints at fresh fruit, but it plunges across the palate, delving into rich plum and stewed berries.
A bellow of dried leaves heaves the fruit, giving it strength. Simple milk chocolate lends a soothing note, though it fights for attention with pricks of ground white pepper and the faintest note of chiseled white pine.
Still, this vintage is about condensed fruit. It sticks around mid-palate and lingers through the finish, even as earthy spices emerge. Yet it remains a light and charming wine.
The easy drinking aspect makes you forget the punch. It slices through the lumbering jam, giving a juicy feel.
This is a wine that speaks lightly, even though it carries big interest.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
