He says it so casually, tossing off the notion as if he were recognizing a clear blue sky or kindly tapping the head of a neighbor’s pet.
There is nothing in Scott Simkover’s nonchalant “I like blending” to suggest the growing lineup at Smiling Dogs Ranch, including BraZen, SyrahZinLot and Fusion.
Clearly he loves its, for Simkover’s blends speak to the soul. With each sip they reveal more about passion for wine — bottles poured for a table of friends — than the terse science of acidity, sugars, profiles and percentages.
His 2015 Fusion, for example, steps away from the abstract equations guiding many blends. Instead, Simkover favored a much more basic approach: 50 percent merlot, 50 percent cabernet sauvignon, aged in 50 percent new oak.
Call it a return to “Three Rs” sensibility. On the nose the wine is soft, almost subtle, offering glimpses of ripening cherries, dewy morning plums and fresh blackberries. A furtive bite of ground white pepper adds an earthier tone to the aromas, but the impression is of a juicy, welcoming wine.
Of course, it may seem early to release a wine composed of varietals that crave some time in the bottle. Take a sip, however, and you will understand why Simkover couldn’t resist.
The wine seems to enjoy frolicking on the palate. It teases with bursts of freshly pressed cherry juice, the tart bite of young blackberries and the charm of newly ripened plum. While the fruits carouse without care, hints of toasted spice lurk around the edges of the palate.
Soon you become aware of just where this wine wants to go, should you store another bottle in a cellar. It hints at a more serene, considerate character, with impressions of mocha, hand rolled Cuban tobacco and fusty vanilla.
“This wine has so much potential,” Simkover observed.
Indeed, the 2015 Fusion will develop into something rich and contemplative. The 50-50 blend seems to avail itself of the best of both varietals. The cherry notes in particular profit from the treatment and they will hone over time.
Simkover can be lauded for his simple approach — and forgiven for the broad smile that emerges when he discusses the bottle. Yes, he is understated describing his skill as a winemaker, as the gentle tone of his “I like blending” suggests.
When speaking of the wine itself, however, Simkover’s passion for the art becomes clear.
“It’s one of those wines — it’s going to be major,” he said. “I think it’s going to be my best.”
So he recommends setting it aside for a spell, allowing the Fusion to achieve its promise.
It’s not a bad idea, really. Yet the wine is pure joy now.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
