Rick Kasmier started with Bodega Bay Winery. But that was before he set up in Lake County along Big Valley Road.
For his new location he adopted the Kaz Winery label — until recently, when he scratched Kaz in favor of the more formal Lakeport Winery name.
It’s difficult to keep straight.
The 2013 SangioFranc still bears the Kaz brand, but it is worth seeking out through the clutter of Kasmier’s labels.
Aromas of fat purple plum and tart red cherry spring from the glass. There is a sense of elation in the fruit, but the spirit soon ebbs, leaving behind drying reminders — rose petals and frayed leather on a worn brick lane.
This is merely a herald of calm. As the fruits and flowers fade, you bask on a patio catching hints of country pie, the smoke of lightly cured cigars, a mellow note of almond and milk chocolate powder.
Even on the nose it is a unique blend.
Kasmier prepared the SangioFranc from 75 percent sangiovese and 25 percent cabernet franc — two compatible varietals favored for their savory warmth. It is a deftly balanced wine, allowing a streak of cherry to soar across the palate before earthier notes slip the fruit into a nice idle.
Under the cherry — brightened by indications of juicy strawberry and ripe plum — a pastoral sensation of pecan shells and sueded leather steadies the pace. Again the wine settles, and you begin to notice dried herbs, charred fruit, dusty spice, a serene nuttiness and a trace of cocoa.
There is a lot to think about with this wine. Yet it remains even tempered, with moments of great cheer.
No matter which label Kasmier decides upon for future blends, the 2015 SangioFranc will keep the Kaz name alive.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
