Consider the white wine pantheon.
It’s not like wading through Hesiod, mind you. Despite the pleasures of viognier, riesling and other grapes, three varietals — sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot grigio — have been deified by the public.
Just about every winery in Lake County heralds a sauvignon blanc. In terms of acreage planted it is second only to cabernet sauvignon. And local winemakers tempt patrons with chardonnay composed in stainless steel, wood, concrete and combinations of the three.
Yet the quest for pinot grigio can be somewhat futile. Only two labels — Brassfield Estate and Thorn Hill — offer the varietal.
Bask in the Thorn Hill 2015 pinot grigio and you will wonder at the want of this wine. Aromas of fresh pear and ripening peach drift from the glass, trailing hints of pineapple and citrus. Soft floral notes fill in behind, evoking notions of honeysuckle in bloom and the green of spring leaves.
Yet there is some weight to the charming wine, even on the nose. Traces of chipped marble and stern salt water grasses provide balance.
This hard aspect forms a polished foundation as you sip. It allows nimble fruits — peach and pear — to jitter and sway over the palate in a cheerful romp. The firm minerality remains unmoved, even as impressions of pineapple and lemon join in the spree.
On the finish, this stolid counter emerges, bringing with it balancing notes of earthy spice and a sun parched sea breeze. Instead of snapping the brisk fruits, however, the minerality seems to improve them as the finish lingers.
Perhaps the paucity of pinot grigio in Lake County has to do with market forces. Just as white zinfandel blunted demand for pink wines, the popularity of pinot grigio encouraged unconcerned winemakers to heed the siren call of easy sales.
The whirlpool of boorish wines caused many aficionados to recoil. The fair pinot grigio earned an undeserved reputation for simplicity.
Thorn Hill’s 2015 pinot grigio reminds us why the gods raised this varietal to share the glories of sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. And it makes us glad we ventured to find the rare Lake County gem.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
