It may take a moment to decipher the 2014 cabernet sauvignon from Laujor known as “Collie’s Cuvee” — a little olfactory archaeology, if you will.
The wine is breathtaking, like catching that first glimpse of the pyramids. But it is equally secretive, tempting you to unearth its mysteries.
Aromas of blackberry and blueberry swirl from the glass. They are accessible at first, equivalent to date and name and the other superficialities of a history lesson that distract from its deeper meaning. The dark berry notes tease and twist and then tangle.
Suddenly you are struggling for an explanation. The blackberry and blueberry transforms into ripe cherries as you dig deeper. You strike dry cinnamon and stark herbs, perhaps a floral waft and hint of Earl Gray.
It’s worth exploring the wine’s bouquet, however, for it will eventually reward you. The “eureka” moment comes when you discover that elusive essence, buried under strata of bold fruit and brooding earth: licorice — and a little anise.
The former is more familiar. Traces of licorice are often found in better cabernets. But anise?
Laujor winemaker Cheryl Lucido offers no explanation, other than perhaps a trick of harvest or the blend. She picked at 28 brix, considered more than a tad high for the cuvee’s varietals. So during the crush she corrected by bleeding off some of the juice, a process known as soigné that reduced sugar levels and concentrated the flavors.
The blend leans heavily on cabernet sauvignon, but Lucido spiked it with a dash of cabernet franc — 3 percent — and a much larger dose of petite sirah.
“I thought it was a little fruit forward,” she explained. “So I put in a healthy amount — 17 percent.”
The fruits still burst on the palate. Bowls of fresh cherries pour from the glass, parading ahead of the berry impressions so prominent on the nose.
Lucido credits the parched volcanic soils of Lake County for the brisk outburst.
“This Red Hills soil really promotes cherry,” she said.
But the Collie’s Cuvee encourages scrutiny. Lurking under the fresh cherry facade is an earthen trove. Licorice dulled by time, dark chocolate, the rubble left from chiseled stone, faint lines of vanilla and dry herbs all lurk within, with just a trace of pepper and a neat balance of cured tobacco emerging on the finish.
It’s an exceedingly pleasant sensation, like the aromatic smoke driften from a pipe of cherry scented tobacco.
Lucido matured the cabernet blend in French oak for 18 months. She scored the staves with enough flame to develop a rich, toasted color.
“That’s what gives it the tobacco flavor,” she pointed out.
There’s more behind the story, of course. The debris from ancient volcanoes that make up much of the soil tends to stunt the berries and blunt harvest to just a couple tons an acres — a bonus in fine wine terms, for less volume generally translates into more flavor.
The 2014 Laujor cabernet sauvignon Collie’s Cuvee is simply a marvel. Yes, you can simply sip and it will cause a smile. Ah, but dig in and you find yourself on an exploratory journey, with treasure waiting at every level.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
