The menu draws attention to it. The waitress confirms its existence. Even the receipt says it is so.
But with so much fake news drifting around, you may be encouraged to consider the fatty meat in O’Meara Bros. Brewing Company’s pork belly bacon wrap a myth. After all, the smoky layers of cured pork are cushioned by intensely rich pillows of earthy-sweet fat — the kind of dish capable of straining belt buckles after just a few bites.
It seems, however, that chef Jerry Phillips is unaware of the weighty nature of pork belly. Either that, or the O’Meara Bros. chef employs a little sleight of hand.
You see, even though slabs of bacon bulge from the lettuce wraps, the appetizer dish is — gasp! — almost refreshing.
That’s right, it is light and cleansing, even with marbling as the main ingredient.
Phillips starts by braising the pork belly in a vinaigrette spiked with Asian spices that develop the sweet aspect of the meat. He also dresses the filling — a simple slaw — with a ginger-based vinaigrette, a dab of honey and some citrus.
The keen snap of Napa cabbage and genteel buffer of the butter lettuce wrap provide a fresh contrast. But the chef’s real trick is his deft use of acidity.
“That helps balance the fat,” he explained. “Pork belly can be a little too much. You have to deliver it the right way.”
And he does, clearly.
A lean and bright citrus cleaves through the pork. The rustic bite from the Napa cabbage lends a delicate yet bitter edge. Ginger sparks the sharp blade of the vinaigrette, while spurring some of the heartier toasted notes from the braising.
Yet through all of this, an earthy, smoky, peppery and naturally sweet savor lingers. The essence of meat drapes the palate, balancing the fresh bite of fruit and vinegar. It is the fundamental flavor of bacon, without the heft.
“It’s all the acids,” Phillips said. “It cleanses the tongue.”
That’s important. While O’Meara Bros. pork belly wraps may be an intense culinary experiences, they are also intended as an appetizer — three handfuls on your way to the next round.
And considering that grilled cheese of the week calling to you from the menu, it’s best to keep things light, and surprisingly refreshing.
You may even need some convincing that you actually sopped up that much pork belly to start the meal.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
