The year started so well, one cannot be faulted for already wanting to reminisce.
For some time phrases like “next great wine region” or “best unknown wine region” irked Lake County’s winemakers. They had arrived, but endured endlessly the wait for a national audience to catch up.
January opened with results from the San Francisco Chronicle’s wine competition. Five Lake County wines picked up Best of Class honors: the 2014 Zinfandel from Shed Horn Cellars, Brassfield Estate’s 2013 Eruption, a Rhone-style blend, Steele Wines’ 2014 Cabernet Franc from their Writer’s Block line and two of Gregory Graham’s wines — a 2013 Pinot Noir and a 2012 Syrah.
The event attracted almost 8,000 entries from across the U.S. And while sometimes winemakers consider those ribbons and medals lining tasting walls so much clutter, they celebrate accolades — Best of Class, Double Gold, Gold, Silver or Bronze — bestowed by judges of this particular competition.
“It’s great to see it,” Brassfield Estate’s Matt Hughes said at the time. “We know the wine is good, but this is confirmation.”
Lake County wineries collected 84 awards. In addition to the five Best of Class honors, they brought home three Double Golds, 17 Golds, 42 Silvers and 17 Bronze medals.
Double Gold — assigned when all judges for the varietal and price point give a wine perfect scores — went to the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon from Cache Creek, the 2014 Obsidian Ridge Syrah and Steele’s 2014 Pinot Noir.
Steele Wines on topped the medal count with 15 total, including all of their labels. Gregory Graham hauled in 9 medals, while Chacewater, Brassfield and Shannon Ridge earned 7 each.
“We’re proving the quality of Lake County wines across the board,” Steele manager Dave Ostberg observed.
Although Lake County has earned a reputation from those in the know for Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, the San Francisco competition proved something few outside the area seem to realize: the county produces a number of worthy varietals.
In San Francisco, 28 varietals of Lake County grapes picked up medals at the competition, from Aglianico to Zinfandel. Yes, the most popular with judges were Cabernet Sauvignon (13 medals), Sauvignon Blanc (12 medals). But wineries gained notice for Chardonnay (10 medals), Barbera, Nebbiolo, Viognier, Roussanne and others.
Six Sigma has long produced an award winning Pinot Noir, so sought after in other parts of the state.
Former Boatique winemaker Luke Bass was convinced by a 2014 vintage that Lake County’s Red Hills AVA was primed for Malbec. Jim Fore fell in love with Mourvedre after planting near Cobb and sampling his first few vintages for Fore Family. Rosa d’Oro specializes in Italian grapes.
Yes, this could become a bit long winded. A look back at wine sample each week in these pages would uncover, well, favorite after favorite. So a simple comparison may be in order.
Although locked in the same drought, 2013 and 2014 were distinct growing seasons. Each year imparted something of itself on Lake County’s wines.
The 2013 Red Lava Syrah will develop for a decade or more, improving with each passing year.
Yet it is remarkable now. A swirl of the glass releases handfuls of ripe blackberries and a toss of black pepper, followed by a calming notion of milk chocolate, stirred with a little vanilla. These are aromas closely associated with the varietal, of course. But the 2013 Red Lava syrah also hints at little character traits reserved for rare bottles — a sachet of dried herbs, cut lavender curling in the sun, split cedar and golden tobacco leaves forgotten in a weathered barn.
Many of these are faint impressions, but their evidence lingers on the nose. They suggest something remarkable.
It’s a friendly, engaging wine with a promise of intrigue. The finish is rich and sharp, reminiscent of berries rolled in chocolate and dusted with pepper. Yet all the while, leathery tannins — unusual in syrah — remind you that this wine is going places, even though it is wonderfully settled .
The 2014 Obsidian Ridge Syrah is more sedentary — worldly, weighty wine.
With this wine a swirl ruffles the plush surface of cooling blackberry compote. In the background dark fruit, split and seeping, lends further wealth to the nose. Burrowed underneath, an indication of black licorice rolled in allspice and finely ground pepper add to the impression of maturity.
Yet this is a young wine — a perplexing yet beautiful wine. On the palate the blackberry compote concentrates further, creating a sensation of richness. Dark, bittersweet chocolate and cracked black pepper stroll in and settle, as if on a velvety cushion.
Behind this are promising subtleties, but it remains a showcase of fruit — luxurious and finely balanced. The tannins are reserved, yet still evident.
Again, this suggests a wine that will further define itself over time.
Just two examples, mind you. Yet they make it clear why people are beginning to realize the scope of Lake County’s wine production.
Variety has been here for some time, waiting for the world to make that discovery, as well.
In the first half of 2017. it became more customary for people to notice.
