Winemakers often claim a hands off approach, to allowing terroir and the whims of a growing season to play out in the bottle. And it is true, to some extent.
You see, even the most lenient of vintners fret over residual sugar levels, acidity and more, even while grapes are still clinging to the vine. They pick when the numbers are right and match strains of yeast with care to launch fermentation.
At this point, winemakers can direct the yeast to gobble more or less sugar, turning the wine sweet or dry. They can even manipulate the amount of contact between grape juice and skin during fermentation. The process — called the punchdown — influences the color and character of the resulting wine.
But with her 2015 Laujor malbec, Cheryl Lucido had no choice. The grapes were crushed on September 11 of that year. The next day she was forced to scramble toward safety as the Valley Fire erupted, leaving the juice behind.
It remain in vats untouched for five days. No particular addition of yeast, no punchdown.
Of course, yeast does not only exist in containers. Feral strains toss around in the wind. Leave grape juice alone and these savages will descend and bend the wine to their will.
Yes, some winemakers swear by native yeast. But Lucido had prepared for a more cultured process. So the 2015 Laujor malbec is truly a hands off wine, the result of wild fermentation.
Nature produced an enthusiastic wine, full of brawny fruits and determined earthiness. On the nose it calls out to you with aromas of pomegranate and blueberries dipped in chocolate. It then grabs you by the collar, wanting to show you something more: hints of spiced molasses, sweetened bitter coffee and scorched cigars.
The bouquet suggests a wine with few inhibitions. Indeed, a sip unleashes a cascade of concentrated fruits. Pomegranate, blueberries and stewed cherries tumble in lively fashion across the palate, almost obscuring a darker, bittersweet savor — as if the fruits and berries had interrupted morning coffee.
Mid-palate earthier aspects begin to flex, with impressions of chocolate, tanned leather and blackstrap. A mineralic foundation elbows to gain attention, as well, with hints of crushed stone and tobacco smoke.
Yet this is not a brooding wine. The fruits remain unimpressed by this dour turn and take over on the finish, bowing out with a bright, spirited show.
This is not an ordinary malbec.
Lucido credits her inability to control the fermentation process. The wild yeast feasted, but the party apparently lost its steam, leaving plenty of sweetness behind.
“It stopped at 3.5 residual sugar, which is hefty for a malbec,” Lucido said, resorting to the data adored by winemakers. “So it is different.”
While she lost her say in the fermentation process, Lucido was able to regain control of the wine during aging. She allowed it to tame for 16 months in French oak that had been subjected to a heavy toast.
Even that could not completely corral the wine. That morass of mocha, pepper, leather and pomace aficionado refer to as a meaty character that forms the backbone of malbec was stunted by nature.
“The meaty thing is there, but it’s not as prominent,” Lucido observed. “It has a nice brightness to it.”
Since released, the 2015 Laujor malbec has been selling very well. Its success caused Lucido to notice a trend.
As a winemaker, she generally strives for nuance. But this is a brash wine.
“People like that fruit on the front,” Lucido said.
Malbec is known for its appreciation of high elevation soils. It thrives in Argentina and in Lake County’s Red Hills. Clearly it also welcomes spontaneous fermentation and a hands off approach.
OK, so Lucido had no real choice in the matter. Still, in this case it was wise to let nature run its course.
