For Lake County’s dining scene, 2017 was marked more by events from, say, 2016 — even 2015.
One could say it began with a new face at Park Place, who arrived in the fall of 2016 and wasn’t even a particularly new face.
Jeremy Zabel worked the kitchen of the Lakeport institution from 1991 until 2006, when he took over at the Saw Shop Gallery Bistro in Kelseyville. He returned after a year in Napa as general manager of Park Place, splitting his time between the kitchen and the front of the house. More importantly, he shook up what had become a predictable menu.
Zabel charged it with seasonal additions and regular specials. With a perfectionist chef — Francisco Cervantes — providing further guidance in the kitchen, the transformation was remarkable.
Of course, a seasonal menu means that favored items occasionally drop from the list. But it is the direction taken by several chefs. Matthew Metcalf at Greenview in Hidden Valley Lake joined the movement to lean as much as possible on local, seasonal flavors. Jerry Phillips, introduced in May as chef at O’Meara Bros. Brewing Company, also believes in menu changes based upon nature.
Zabel had been a proponent of seasonal menus at the Sawshop. But this idea was taken up with zeal in 2015, when chefs John Arslanian and Scott Price arrived in Lake County from Los Angeles, determined to continue concepts that had long trended elsewhere. As a result, Fresh & Bangin’ Eatery in Lucerne helped spark what was evident in 2017 — a small but noticeable culinary revolution.
“We’ve seen a lot of change — the quality of chef and the way people eat,” Zabel observed. “The great thing about having so many chefs is we are all pushing each other.”
The county now features several chef driven restaurants. In addition to Park Place, O’Meara Bros. and Saw Shop (now guided by Matt Young), one can find individual flair at Loch Lomond Roadhouse and Boar’s Breath in Clearlake. Blue Wing Saloon began revamping its menus in the fall. Dirty Girl Donuts set up an artisanal bakery in Cobb.
There was a lot going on.
“I think I’m here on the cusp,” Metcalf said.
Yet there is value in the constant. HDL Farm Gourmet Food Co. & French Bakery prepares many of the same loaves, day after day.
And they generally sell out, long before closing.
Yeah, Roger Hue de Laroque opened around Thanksgiving of 2016 — the theme continues — but word of the Clearlake Oaks storefront began to percolate through the county as 2017 dawned. By September, HDL opened a second location, this time in Upper Lake.
Unfortunately, the space was made available by the unexpected death of Carli Tippett. Her People Pleazin’ Pantry had become a popular stop for handcrafted mixes and ready to bake scones. The county also lost culinary icon Nancy Zabel, co-owner of Park Place, in 2017.
The blow came not long after Twisted Sisters, a finely decked bar and grill that had opened with great fanfare in 2016 shut its doors. Other restaurants — including Pit Stop in North Lakeport, TNT, Boathouse in Nice and Richmond Park in the Rivieras were threatened, damaged or shuttered by winter flooding.
The management team at The Spot in Clearlake determined to hang on as long as possible, even as waters inched closer in February.
Otherwise, it was a year of ups and downs, fun and festivals. The Baconfest — Beer, Wine and Swine — filled the streets of Kelseyville after a delayed start. County Supervisor Tina Scott captured first place in the Pear Festival dessert contest.
Lou Ann Bauer’s Hill Creek Vineyard Tuscan blend extra virgin olive oil from Coratina, Pendolino, Frantoio and Leccino varietals took gold at the Los Angeles International Olive Oil competition.
Meanwhile Emilio De la Cruz captured Best of Show at the California Olive Oil Council’s annual competition in Monterey. His prize bottle? Chacewater’s Sevillano, an extra virgin oil from a Spanish varietal.
Within in a matter of weeks, two Lake County olive oil producers — one large, one small — had topped their class in major competitions. De la Cruz would later travel to Japan on a sponsored trip promoting local extra virgin oils.
Woodland Community College Clear Lake’s culinary program added to the award list when student Jennifer Kooyman won the California Community College Culinary Competition in Los Angeles.
Yes, popular locations kept doing what they do well, from Jimmy’s to La Parilla to Renee’s. Stone Fire Pizza opened a third location, this time in Lakeport. It was joined shortly afterward by a Papa Murphy’s location.
So the culinary revolution involved by change and consistency, successes and failures, gains and losses.
That’s 2017, in brief. What will come in 2018?
Well, Fresh & Bangin’ is set to open a second and third operation, both on Main Street in Lakeport. Angelina’s will celebrate 25 years.
We will find out the rest.
