We’re human and we can’t help but make comparisons.
This is true in almost any realm. For example, who was the greatest slugger of all time? Well, let’s consider for a moment. Babe Ruth belted 714 home runs while puffing cigars, guzzling booze and swelling his waistline with hot dogs. Barry Bonds needed synthetics to help him top the great Bambino. Meanwhile, Hammerin’ Hank Aaron racked up 755 in the most monotonous manner possible — no scandalous personal life, no artificial enhancements, just good, solid baseball.
The argument requires reference points. Each era offered different challenges, different opportunities. And perhaps the matter may never be settled.
When it comes to Lake County wine, one must remember that trite phrases like “next great wine region” or “best unknown wine region” continue to irk local winemakers. The verbal slights continued, even into December. In a feature on Italian varietals grown in California, Kevin Harvey of Rhys Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains told the San Francisco Chronicle “So many Cal-Ital projects have failed. At the low end, it’s not differentiated from the available cheap Italian wines. At the high end, nobody’s really tried.”
Nick Buttitta, who has for some time produced remarkable Italian varietal wines from his Kelseyville vineyards for the Rosa d’Oro label may disagree.
Or there was this, from an Esther Mobley feature in the same paper to close out the old year: “the heart of Bodkin I in Lake County, a region long known for producing inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc of middling quality.”
Fortunately, January opens with results from the San Francisco Chronicle’s annual wine competition, one of the largest in the nation and a reliable point of comparison. In 2017, the judges again confirmed the quality of Lake County wines.
Five local labels picked up Best of Class honors: the 2014 Zinfandel from Shed Horn Cellars, Brassfield Estate’s 2013 Eruption, a Rhone-style blend, Steele Wines’ 2014 Cabernet Franc from their Writer’s Block line and two of Gregory Graham’s wines — a 2013 Pinot Noir and a 2012 Syrah.
The event attracted almost 8,000 entries from across the U.S. And while sometimes winemakers consider those ribbons and medals lining tasting walls so much clutter, they celebrate accolades — Best of Class, Double Gold, Gold — bestowed by judges of this particular competition.
“It’s great to see it,” Brassfield Estate’s Matt Hughes said at the time. “We know the wine is good, but this is confirmation.”
Lake County wineries collected 84 awards. In addition to the five Best of Class honors, they brought home three Double Golds, 17 Golds, 42 Silvers and 17 Bronze medals.
Double Gold — assigned when all judges for the varietal and price point give a wine perfect scores — went to the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon from Cache Creek, the 2014 Obsidian Ridge Syrah and Steele’s 2014 Pinot Noir.
Steele Wines on topped the medal count with 15 total, including all of their labels. Gregory Graham hauled in 9 medals, while Chacewater, Brassfield and Shannon Ridge earned 7 each.
“We’re proving the quality of Lake County wines across the board,” Steele manager Dave Ostberg observed.
The San Francisco competition proved something few outside the area seem to realize: The county now produces a number of worthy varietals.
In San Francisco, 28 varietals of Lake County grapes picked up medals at the competition, from Aglianico — that’s Italian — to Zinfandel.
Yes, the most popular with judges were Cabernet Sauvignon (13 medals), Sauvignon Blanc (12 medals). But wineries gained notice for Chardonnay (10 medals), Barbera, Nebbiolo, Viognier, Roussanne and others.
For winemaker Dustin Fults, the competition was even more intense than just waiting for the results. In 2017, he was asked to be one of the judges — a first for the man responsible for Fults Family’s collection.
Over three days he shuffled through hundreds of bottles, sampling, swirling, debating the nuances of color or aroma or varietal expression with other experts over tables lined with empty glasses and brimming spit buckets.
“It’s definitely fun — and challenging at the same time,” Fults said.
One of the entries he helped to judge — a 2014 Zinfandel from Shed Horn Cellars in Middletown — earned the coveted Best of Class award.
In 2016, Lake County wineries earned four Best of Class, two Double Golds and 19 Golds. In 2017, outside wineries using Lake County grapes added to the tally, nudging the year ahead. They contributed another Best of Class, two Double Golds and two Golds.
“We’ve always known that we have the best grapes,” Hughes said with a smile.
In May, the winemaker who launched Boatique’s award winning lineup, was named Winemaker of the Competition at the North of the Gate Wine Competition in Sonoma County.
Boatique’s 2016 Sauvignon Blanc — yes, one of those scorned by Bay Area media — also shared a win for White Sweepstakes.
“I didn’t realize they’d entered it,” Bass said, laughing. “That’s my first official first place prize. That’s pretty huge.”
The year saw Lake County wines capture 90-plus ratings from publications, including a list of reds from the Sol Rouge label.
Part of the momentum gained by California’s finest little known wine region is down to the skill of stalwart winemakers. Much of the credit belongs, however, to the rutted ground. Sometimes blasted by basalt, other times draped in red stones or razor black glass, it defines Lake County wines.
“In Napa we have richer soils,” explained Jim Fore, who farms vineyards in Lake County as well for his family label. “But grapes don’t require too much. Grape vines are tough critters. They’ll grow on concrete.”
Perhaps, but there is apparently something to be said for the qualities imparted by rocky, infertile, parched, mineralic soil.
Canada’s first Master Sommelier, John Szabo, toured the world for his book “Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power.” He believes Lake County’s brutal hillsides will finally be recognized for world class bottles.
“Water holding capacity is low and vines struggle, yielding less but more concentrated fruit,” he pointed out.
Szabo spoke in Lakeport at the annual Momentum convention and his research was a revelation. Volcanic soils, he explained, turn out wine that may not always be popular with the masses, but are sought by aficionados.
Amy Thorn, who tends vineyards in California’s more exclusive region as well as Lake County agrees. Her 2013 Thorn Hill Volcanic cabernet sauvignon offers a compote gavotte and a moment alone with decadent chocolate before strains of tannic leather haul the fruits down to earth.
The binding tannins suggest a bottle to save.
“I’ll put my Red Hills Cabernet against my Napa Cabernet any day,” Thorn said. “The Red Hills has the potential to create wines that age for 20 plus years.”
Of course, that’s a problem in a nation defined by instant gratification.
“You’re working against nature, soils, climate, etc.,” Szabo acknowledged. “Those that understand and embrace that fact are making fine wines that, sooner or later, the world will recognize.”
Szabo, a partner in WineAlign.com as well as gallivanting author, added that Lake County’s sauvignon blancs are already the best in California.
The year saw a number of Lake County winemakers expand, adding wonderful dry roses, port style dessert wines and other styles to their lineups.
There were personnel changes along the way, of course. Lake County institutions Myron and Marilyn Holdenried retired, welcoming the new owners of Wildhurst, Michael and Tanya Hat to the Kelseyville community.
In November, the Lake County Winery Association announced the hiring of Maria Brunn as Executive Director for the regional trade association.
Brunn comes to this position from Sonoma County Vintners, where she managed operations and finances for the nonprofit trade association with 250 winery members.
“I am so excited to have this opportunity,” Brunn said. “Lake County is perfectly positioned for growth in this market. With over 9,400 acres planted to winegrapes, the volcanic soil and high elevation vineyards have led to wines of character and distinction and I am looking forward to elevating the profile of Lake County’s outstanding wines and this beautiful region.”
So a new year begins. And once again, the comparisons remain. Around the nation, people refer to Napa and Sonoma. The passing year — again — suggested Lake County’s place in the discussion.
The matter may not be settled in 2018. Then again, that first point of reference is due this month.
